by Rita
Witnessing the Centennial Splendor of the Old City
Zuoying Old Town, having endured numerous trials and tribulations over the past century, has a rich history that traces back to the Dutch period. We can catch glimpses of its diverse facets, especially during the fascinating periods of Qing dynasty and Japanese occupation. Whether it's in terms of industry, economy, architecture, or even local folklore such as Feng Shui, each aspect is worth exploring. This article will focus on the stories surrounding the old city gates - Simen (West Gate) and the shrine ruins, allowing us to follow the traces of these historical landmarks and witness the events that unfolded during World War II. It turns out that this piece of land holds many lesser-known but indelible stories, full of tears and genuine historical occurrences.
The Unknown Origins of The West Gate
The Town wall before us was completed in the sixth year of Qing Daoguang (1826 AD), constructed with stone to represent the achievement of the second town-building endeavor (the first being an earthen wall). This wall includes four gates facing east, west, south, and north. However, to this day, only the North Gate (Gongchen Gate), South Gate (Qiweng Gate), and East Gate (Fengyi Gate) remain standing. Some may wonder about the west gate ?
The west gate, also known as the Deanhai Gate, with "Dean" carrying the connotation of "stability," faced the Zuoying naval base and the Taiwan Strait. The name of this gate symbolizes a prayer for stability in the maritime region, wishing for the safe departure and return of those setting sail. However, due to demolition efforts during the Japanese occupation, the silhouette of the west gate has vanished into the river of history.
Fast forward to 2013, the Ministry of National Defense initiated the dismantling project of military dependents' villages. As residents gradually moved out, surprising discoveries unfolded during the excavation process – the remnants and foundations of the west gate were unveiled. In March 2014, the Simen City Walls site emerged once again, with town wall a clearer delineation, leading the government to officially designate it as a national historic site. To everyone's delight, beneath the wall, Kaohsiung Cultural Association uncovered what appeared to be remnants of a suspected Japanese military trench; meanwhile, above the wall, the existence of shrine structures raised widespread attention. The question of whether it was indeed a shrine remains open, pending further archaeological studies. The association decided to conduct an in-depth investigation, hoping that archaeological excavations would unveil the historical events and stories of nearly a century.
As for the gate plaque of 'the west gate,' it is currently housed in the Kaohsiung Museum of History. For those eager to delve deeper, a visit to the museum promises a glimpse into the captivating historical tales engraved on the plaque! Such cultural excavations not only enrich the layers of the city's history but also provide a profound understanding of this chapter in history.
Japanese Style Historic Site Erected on the Town Wall
Returning to the remnants of the town wall, Kaohsiung Cultural Association made a remarkable discovery on the west town wall. Similar to the base of honden (main hall), a temizuya (a place for worshippers to cleanse their hands), and ruins such as shrine approach path. Notably, on the temizuya, an engraving of a pattern known as 'Double Hook Jade' was identified, resembling the Yin-Yang Tai Chi . It is the "communal crest" of Oishi Shrine in Akō-shi , Japan. It's worth mentioning that this specific pattern is not typically found in Shinto shrines in Taiwan. Confirmation from Mr. Hisanori Sakai, a professor and Shinto expert from a Japanese university, revealed that Among all the Japanese camp shrines , the one most closely resembling the base of the main hall in Zuoying is the Tsukuba Shrine of the Tsukuba Naval Air Group, further strengthening the credibility of the existence of the Zhenyang Shrine.
Furthermore, the book 'Recollections of Bo troops: Naval No. 20 Zhenyang Special Attack Unit' documents that “ Zhenyang Shrine was burned after the defeat in war “and that “the shrine was located on the town wall behind the military barracks”, providing additional confirmation that this shrine was established during the Japanese colonial period and towards the end of World War II. In the exploration of the old town of Zuoying, experts uncovered limited surviving remnants of Japanese shrines overseas, marking a significant and valuable find with important cultural and historical significance. This discovery contributes to the preservation of the cultural heritage of both nations.
A Symbol of Despair, Also a Sanctuary of Faith
As previously mentioned, the Zhenyang Special Attack Unit, “Zhenyang”(しんよう) earned its name towards the end of the Pacific War when Japan's military strength was severely depleted. In an effort to resist the advancing American forces, Japan resorted to suicide attacks, known as the 'Shinyo Special Attack Unit.' Similar to the more widely known 'Kamikaze Special Attack Unit,' this approach involved utilizing human-piloted explosive crafts designed for deployment on water. The Shinyo boats were small, lightweight vessels with a custom three-layered hull, approximately 10 meters in length and 2 meters in width. The front of the boat housed explosives, while the rear accommodated Toyota engine equipment, making it a relatively simple structure.
By 1944, Japan had organized ten camps in Taiwan, distributed in areas such as Taipei, Keelung, Kaohsiung's Zuoying, Guandu, Pingtung's Haikou, and Penghu's Xiyu. The teams stationed near Zuoying old town were the 20th Team (Bo Troops), the 21st Team (Takeuchi Troops) and the 31st Team (Kurihara Troops). Zhenyang 21st Unit was positioned near the xī zì zhù new village. The construction of shrines can be seen as providing temporary stability and a sense of peace to these Special Attack Unit soldiers during tumultuous times. In an era filled with chaos and the constant risk of losing their lives, soldiers could engage in activities such as training, exercises, camp security, or playing baseball. The remnants of the shrine site reflect the complex emotions of the soldiers who came here to pray. Their feelings during that time were undoubtedly a mix of various emotions. The surviving artifacts symbolize the pain and indescribable fragments of sorrow left behind in this place.
Fortunately, Japan surrendered shortly after, bringing an end to the war. Soldiers were no longer required to carry out their missions, allowing the members of the Special Attack Units to survive. After the war, some chose to continue their lives in Taiwan, while others were repatriated to Japan. The name 'Zhenyang' should not be forgotten, and as residents of Kaohsiung, even if not originally from Zuoying, we should remember this history. After all, this place witnessed the struggles and sacrifices of many Japanese and Taiwanese individuals who fought for their “country”.
Reviving Memories of the Land
Through in-depth exploration of the relics mentioned above, we gain insight into the vital role that archaeology plays in connecting local historical contexts. Often, we only see the surface features without understanding the intricate details behind them. Those seemingly inconspicuous ruins actually hold significant cultural and historical value. These landmarks were once treasures in the river of history, and how can we overlook this rich cultural heritage?
There is still time. Take the opportunity to carefully delve into understanding and experiencing, and you'll hear the echoes of history's stories in your ears. Looking forward, we hope to continue discovering more undisclosed historical sites in Zuoying, gradually unveiling the appearance of the old town over the past century. It also makes more people willing to pay attention to the preservation of literature and history and continue to pass on the story of Zuoying. Let us awaken the precious memories contained in this land together.We anticipate that everyone who embarks on this deep exploration becomes a witness to history, ensuring the transmission of these valuable historical stories.
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