Visiting Ancient Houses in the Zuoying Old Settlement
編撰／ 龔書永
攝影／活動工作人員
沒有什麼比參觀左營舊聚落的古厝更讓我興奮的了。左營舊城又稱鳳山縣舊城，是現代高雄市的發源地。觀察數百年前人們的生活方式是很有趣的，因為這些古厝充分展現當時人們的價值觀和哲學，也是帶領我們踏上時光之旅的通道。這類史跡目前尚無確切的英文翻譯，為了簡單起見，這裡就統稱為「古厝」（old house）；只是嚴格來說，稱為「歷史建物」（historical house）、「古宅」（old mansion）也是一樣的意思。想要深入了解更多內容，請上ourtown.tw看我寫的另一篇報導：「住在古城中絲綢與緞紋交織而成的奢華宅邸」（Living in silk and satin–Opulent mansions of the Old Town）。那還等什麼呢？來吧，我們走！
Nothing gets me more excited than visiting ancient dwellings in the Zuoying old settlement. This place is also called Fengshan Old Town since this is the place where it all started here in modern Kaohsiung City. It’s intriguing to see how people lived hundreds of years ago. These old houses speak volumes about their values and philosophy; and they’re in fact a gateway taking us on a journey back in time. Now that there’s no exact translation in English for such historical relics, we’ll just call them “old house” for the sake of simplicity; even though “historical house”, “old mansion” and the like can all be viewed as the same thing technically speaking. If you are interested in more content about this topic, please go to ourtown.tw and check out another coverage I’ve written called “Living in silk and satin–Opulent mansions of the Old Town.” Well, what are we waiting for? Come on, let’s go!
準備展開步行導覽
Getting ready for the walking tour
當日小隊協調員和解說員：亞瑟（左二）、巴比（左三）、夏天（左四）、梅伊（右後五）、傑（右一）
Team coordinators and speakers of the day: Arthur 2nd left, Bobby 3rd left, Summer 4th left, May 5th right at the back, and Jay 1st right
第一站：一甲余家古厝
First Stop: The Yu Family’s Old House
文／梅伊
余家古厝位於左營舊聚落一甲，建於清乾隆年間。余家曾經出了一位武官暨前高雄縣長於—余登發。
Yu Family ancient mansion is located in the1st district (一甲) in the old settlement of Zuoying, and it was built in the Qianlong period of the Qing Dynasty. From this family came a military attaché as well as a former county magistrate, Yu Dengfa.
這裡之所以稱為「一甲」，是因為在日據時代，日本人將每十戶人家劃分為一個甲，這個劃分單位能讓日本官員統計該區共有多少戶人家，據此計算可以徵召多少士兵。
Why we call “一甲” , because it’s from the Japanese occupation era ,10 families form a 甲, it’s a unit to let the official to count how many families in this area, so they can calculate how many soldiers they can recruit.
從房子的外觀，例如魚鱗狀的屋頂，可以看出這是一座閩式建築（圖4）。房子入口懸掛「山海鎮」門額。這原本是幫助鎮宅化煞、轉禍為祥的風水寶物，是臺灣常見的門額，具有驅邪的作用。門額是由鏡子或木牌構成，上面繪有五嶽一海，同時寫著「我家如山海，他作我無妨」。意思是「我家已經化為自然景觀，任何邪靈都無法影響到我家」。
We can see from the appearance of the house , it’s a Fujian style architecture, for example the roof is like the scale of the fish (Pic. 4) and there is a “山海鎮 lintel plaque hung at the entrance of the house. It was originally a feng shui treasure that can help control the house and turn evil into auspiciousness. It is common door lintels in Taiwan to expel evil spirits. It is connected by a mirror or a wooden sign, with five mountains and a sea painted on the head, which reads My home is like mountains and seas, and the rest has nothing to do with me. It means “My home has turned into a natural landscape, and any evil spirit will have no effect on my house.”
在最繁華的時期，房子旁邊有一個紅磚蓋的豬圈。在當時牲畜等同是家產，所以需要日夜守護這些財產。
During the most prosperity period, there was a red brick pigsty aside the house. Livestock is a kind of their property; they need to keep an eye on it day and night.
過去這裡有兩口井。在思想保守的時代，用水也必須符合性別規範。左前方的稱為「龍井」，一般為男性使用，右前方的稱為「虎井」，供女性專用。我們可以感受到古厝的輝煌和洋溢的幸福感。
There were even two deep wells. In an era of conservative thinking, water use must also comply with gender norms. The front left is called “dragon well”, which is normally used by men, and the front right is called “tiger well” for women only. We can feel the splendor of the ancient house and the full happiness.
1950年代，左營地區是一整片的農地，主要農作物是「菱角」；這裡也是花生的集散中心。在當時，左營舊城周邊不少店家都會到高雄和屏東一帶收購花生，加工成花生製品來販售。隨著產業變遷和都市更新，農地變成建地，花生加工店家數量逐漸減少，僅剩幾家至今仍在營業。永豐花生糖是當地掛上招牌營業的店家。創店地點就在余家古厝。如今經營店鋪的第三代也肩負維護古宅的責任。
In the 1950s Zuoying area was an entire agricultural land, and the main crop was “water chestnut” ; it was also a distribution center for peanuts. Back then, many shops around Zuoying old town went to Kaohsiung and Pingtung to purchase peanuts to sell them as processed goods. With industrial changes and urban renewal, all agricultural land was converted into construction land, and the number of peanut processing shops dwindled, with only a few still operating today. Yung Feng永豐peanut candy is the store that fit up its signboard in that time. It was found in this ancient house of the Yu family. Now the shop owner is the third generation, meanwhile in charge of keeping this old mansion.
與梅伊攝於余家古厝
At the Yu family old house with May
屋瓦形似魚鱗
roof tiles resembling the scales of a fish
第二站：蘇家古厝
Second Stop: The Su Family’s Old House
文／林一成
參觀左營舊城古厝，感受其傳遞的價值和傳承的文史記憶。
Visit to the old house of Zuoying Old City to appreciate their value delivered and historical and cultural memories passed on.
歡迎各位光臨，感謝大家特別撥出時間來認識左營地區的古厝。各位的參觀能讓這些古厝的價值傳得更廣，並為未來累積更多記憶。
Welcome you all and thank you for taking your time to get acquainted with the old houses in the Zuoying area. Your moves keep the value impact in wider scope and the buildup of memories for the future.
我的名字叫一成，讓我向各位介紹左營舊城二甲地區的蘇家古厝。幸運的是，這棟古厝是目前保存完好的古厝之一，也是現存20到30座古厝之一。不過很可惜的是，原有的150到200座古厝中，約有80%已被拆除，用於建造現代建築，或是因為經濟因素、所有權糾紛等等原因，逐漸成為廢墟，沒有保留用於文化價值保存等等用途。
This is I-Chen and kindly please allow me to introduce you to the Su Family in the 2nd Zone (2甲) of Zuoying Old City. Fortunately, this Old House has been one of the somehow properly and proportionally conserved and is one of the 20-30 existing old houses nowadays. On the other hand, it is unfortunate that roughly 80% or more out of the original 150-200 units have been torn down to rebuild in modern use or just let them turn into ruins as the time went by for whatever reason, economic concern or disputes in ownership and…etc., rather than the culture and value preservation purpose.
我先跟大家介紹一下蘇家的背景。這座古厝建於1926年日據時期，是一座五開間的大宅。這座宅第建有左右護龍，可供家族成員和/或年輕一輩居住。有別於普通的小房子，這座五開間的大宅展現這個家族的富貴顯赫的社會地位。
Let me give you some background overview about the Su family. This old house was built in 1926 during the Japanese occupation period. It was a 5-open-section big house when built up. It goes with the so-called right and left arm of building for the family members and/or the younger generations to live in. Rather than an ordinary small house, that 5-open-section big house shows its wealth, prosperity and high social status.
蘇家之所以在二甲當地深具影響力，在於這個家族的世代傳承的價值和精神。過去蘇家祖先以醫者的身分，為當地居民提供醫療服務。不過他們都是沒有執照、未經正式訓練的醫者，也就是所謂的「赤腳仙仔」。這個稱呼的意思是，在那個大部分的人都不識字、看不懂書的年代，他們透過大量閱讀和研究自學成醫。中國古代有個觀念叫做「萬般皆下品、唯有讀書高」，蘇家代代相傳這種哲理。
What makes the Su Family influential enough in local 2甲 falls on its family inherited value and spirit. Their ancestors played a role of providing medical care for local residents as a doctor. However these were uncertified, informally trained physicians called “barefoot healers” ‘赤腳仙仔’. The name means a learn-by-nature doctor illustrated by extensive reading and studying at a time when a significant part of local people were illiterate (not acquainted with words and not being able to read). An old Chinese philosophical thought says clear the value of ‘Nothing is more important than learning (Studying) '萬般皆下品、唯有讀書高’. Such philosophy is passed down from generation to generation.
我們來看一下這棟建築，找找蘇家古厝世傳價值的證據，如何？找到的人請舉手跟我們分享。對，那麼這支毛筆代表什麼意思？
Why not take a glance at the building and you’ll be able to find out possible evidence to tell the inherited value of Su Family Old House now? Raise your hand and speak up to show us if you get it please. Yes, the Chinese brush pen indicates…what?
這支用於書寫文字的毛筆寓意獲取知識，以及內心平靜和一致的內在精神。那這面細石牆面和裁切成六角形的石灰岩呢？有別於一般民房使用刺竹、土磚、土籬或土牆建造而成，蘇家古厝所使用的優質石灰岩建材足以顯示這個家族的財力。還有其他證明蘇家哲理的證據嗎？沒錯，就是這些引人注目的花磚。傳統上花磚是以手工製作，經過攝氏1,000到1,200度高溫釉燒而成。花磚在當時是很昂貴的舶來品，現在已經沒有人在製造了。花磚不只是無價的寶物，也是文化遺產。凸面花磚工藝品源於英國和法國等歐洲國家。但自1900起，凸面花磚主要是從日本淡路島出口到臺灣作建築用途（圖5）。本土化的花磚圖案一般都是石榴、蘋果、牡丹、桃子等象徵符號，寓意子孫昌茂、平安、富貴、長壽等等傳統意義。左營舊城老厝的花磚算得上是相當華麗的。
It tells the writing, words and implies knowledge acquisition as well as the intrinsic spirit of inner hearted tranquility and consistency. What about the fine stone wall and the shaved hexagonal limestones? Rather than thorny bamboo or mudbrick- or clod fence or wall of other resident houses, the fine limestone material used for the building you see shows the Su Family’ economic wealth at the time. Any other findings can prove the Su Family’s prosperity, anyone? Sure, the colored tiles named ‘Flower Tile’ do catch our eyes. The conventional hand-made and glaze firing through the process of heating temperature of 1000-1200 degree Celsius. The flower tiles at that time were extremely expensive imported goods and are no longer produced today. They are priceless treasures as well as cultural heritage. The flower tile craftworks with convex surfaces were originally from European countries such as Great Britain and France. However, they were mainly imported to Taiwan for building construction since 1900 from Awaji Island (淡路島), Japan (pic. 5). The localized tile design with symbolic sign like pomegranate (石榴), apple, peony(牡丹花), peach, representing conventional and everlasting meaning of more children offspring, peace, fortune and longevity. The flower tiles are thought to be gorgeous enough among the old houses in Zuoying Old City.
攝於蘇家古厝。注意這些來自日本淡路島的彩磚
At the Su family’s old house. Notice the color tiles from Awaji, Japan.
第三站：柯家古厝
Third Stop: The Ko Family’s Old House
文／夏天
柯家早期來自中國福建省同安縣。祖先遷臺之後原本住臺南六甲，後來移居左營謀生。
Ko family came from Tung-An (同安縣) in Fujian province of China in early time. Their ancestors originally lived in Liu Chia (六甲), Tainan, when they came to Taiwan, and then moved to Zuoying to make a living.
如今，左營柯氏成員分成四房。大房和二房兩家住在二甲，餘者住在左營三甲。
Nowadays, their members in Zuoying are divided into 4 families. The oldest and second families live in the 2nd district(二甲), the rest live in the 3rd district(三甲) in Zuoying.
這座古厝位於左營舊聚落三甲，建於日據時期。大廳門上掛著一塊門額，這是名門望族是常見的作法。上面寫著梅魁，代表這個家族的宗族名稱。春天是一年的初始，而梅花又是百花之后。梅魁代表這個家庭人口興旺，但只有女兒而沒有兒子。在中國的傳統裡，如果族中沒有兒子可以延續後代，就如寒冬一般。
This particular old house is located in the 3rd district(三甲) area in Zuoying old settlement, and was built during the Japanese occupation period. There’s a plaque on the top of the door in the hall, this is common practice for famous and rich families. And it states the clan name of the family, Mei Kuei梅魁. Spring is the beginning of the year, and plum blossoms are the queen of all the flowers . Mei Kuei梅魁 means a family with many children, only girls but no boys. In the Chinese tradition, if there is no one who can continue the future generations, it’s just like a cold winter.
人們期盼春天快點到來，因為這是百花盛開的季節。他們期望男丁能像百花綻放一樣越來越多。
People hope spring comes soon, because it is the season when flowers bloom. They expected flowers to bloom like more and more sons.
也許他們對男性子嗣的看法會隨時間改變，不過這個旺族永遠期盼後代子孫代代都能成功壯大。
Maybe time will change their views on men, but these prestigious big families will always hope that their descendants are great and successful in every generation.
與夏天攝於柯家古厝
at the Ko family’s with Summer
右邊護龍似乎年久失修
the “right arm” seems to be in shambles
第四站：大廟黃家古厝（一）
Fourth Stop: The Huang Family’s Old House（part I）
文／巴比
大家進入這座古厝前已經看到側門了，門上寫著「五福臨門」幾個字，代表各種福氣皆來的意思，足見這是一個富貴人家（圖8）。另外，從入口門額上的文字，可以看出這家的主人可能是個養子。黃家祖先叫做黃仕，是清朝時期鎮守左營的官員。在日本殖民時期，黃家後代黃鳥秋有三個兒子，分別為黃土、黃仕和黃鴻。黃家經營一家碾米廠、數家雜貨鋪，以及牛車運輸的生意，因此在地方上的影響力逐漸壯大。此外，族中有人擔任當地保正，因此地位崇高。
You had seen the side door before you entered the old house. And its name reads “五福臨門” , which means “herald of all fortunes,” the family was obviously a wealthy one (Pic. 8). In addition, the name of the lintel plaque at the entrance indicates its owner might have been an adopted son.
The ancestor, named Huang Sih (黃仕), served as an official in charge of guarding 左營 Zuoying town in Chin dynasty. And then his later generation in Japanese-colonial period, Huang Wu Chiu (黃鳥秋) had three sons, Huang Tu (黃土), Huang Sih(黃仕) and Huang Hong (黃鴻). The Huangs were getting more and more influential because they ran a rice mill, grocery stores and transportation business of ox carts. Furthermore, they also played an important role in the area because of their position of borough leader.
我們很榮幸能見到這個家族的現任女主人，她也是出現在這裡的家族後代之一！
We're so honored to see the current female owner, who is also one of the descendants of the family showing up here！
第四站：大廟黃家古厝（二）
Fourth Stop: The Huang Family’s Old House（part II）
文／龔書永
根據古厝主人的說法，黃家祖先是在清朝年間來到左營舊城，是駐紮在南門的戍守人員。日本殖民時期，黃家財產被政府徵用，作為軍事用途，因此被迫遷往現址。從古厝的規模和富麗堂皇的程度來看，足見他們當時顯赫的社會地位。多年以來，黃家在當地從事各種商業活動，包括經營輾米廠、食品雜貨、牛車運輸（也就是現代所說的「物流」）、當地治安官或保正、信用組合理事、水利組合評議員等等。以那個年代的角度來看，上述種種足以讓我們了解他們在地方上的影響力。
According to the accounts given by the owner, their early ancestor arrived in the Old Town in the Qing dynasty as a member of the garrison stationed at the south gate of the city. During the Japanese colonial period, they were forced to relocate to the present location as a result of their property being commandeered by the government for military application. The scale and opulence of the old house reveals the prestige and social status that they enjoyed at that time. Throughout the years, the family was involved in many different local business activities such as rice dehusking mill, food grocery, ox cart transportation (namely “logistics” in modern terms), local sheriff or leader of the borough (保證), banking cooperative trustee, director of the water resource bureau, and more. And again, from the perspective of the era, all the above gives us an idea on how influential they were in the nearby area.
一路下來，我們著實大飽眼福，現在終於來到四甲，看到更壯觀不朽的建築。在我們今天參觀的所有古厝中，這座是最大的。房子的主要部分蓋成兩進，中間有一座天井。這次我們只能看到第一進的房子；儘管如此，每個角落的裝飾卻讓我們印象深刻。房子正面下半部的建造工法叫做洗石子工法，是在當時很普遍的作法。這種方法是在牆面批上碎石和水泥的混合物，趁著混合物還沒乾，用濕布擦掉一層薄薄的水泥，露出隨意排列的小石子，展現錯綜複雜之美。窗戶上方的捲軸和繪畫傳達出對後代子孫的美好祝福，希望他們在書法和藝術上皆有造詣。書寫能力和良好的藝術品味在現在看來可能是稀鬆平常的事，但在當時卻是非常了不起的大事。門柱和門額則大量使用了花崗岩，展現了極至的奢華，因為這種建材只能從中國採購，更不用說這些磚砌的牆面了，因為這種建材也是從對岸進口的。由此可見這個家族並不在乎建造花費，重要的是透過奢華的建築來彰顯他們的富貴。
After walking around enjoying a feast for my eyes, we finally arrived in the 4th district to see one more spectacular timeless piece of art. Of all the houses we’ve visited today, this one is by far the largest. The main section of the house is built into two tiers with yet another patio in between. This time we only got to see the first tier; and even so, we were more than impressed by the decorations in every part of the house. The lower part of the facade displays a building technique called stuco-washing, a common practice of the time. A mixture of fine gravel and cement was applied to the surface of the wall, and before it was dry, a thin layer of cement was wiped off with a damp cloth to reveal the intricate beauty of the little pebbles arranged in random order. Above the windows were scrolls and paintings that conveyed the best wishes for the forthcoming generations: skill in calligraphy and art. This may not sound extraordinary in modern terms, but in those days, being able to write and possessing a good taste in art was a matter of utmost importance and priority. As for the doorposts and the lintel, granite was used in generous amounts. This displays superb luxury since such material could only be procured from China. And let alone the bricks that covered the walls, which are also imported from the other side of the strait. It seems that they couldn’t care less for the building budget, the message delivered through the extravagance was the only thing that really mattered.
歡迎來到黃家古厝
Welcome to the Huang family’s old house
巴比擔任黃家古厝解說員。門額上寫著梅魁二字
at the Huang’s with Bobby as the speaker. The lintel plaque indicates Mei Kuei梅魁
天井裡的傳統地磚
traditional floor tiles in the patio
大家繞一小段路去看瓦礫，找到建材和建築技術的細節
a small detour to check out the rubbles and find details about building materials and techniques
結語
Epilogue
了解這些古厝的歷史，是認識左營舊聚落的歷史的另一種方法。在現在這個時代，教育方法相當多元，有些還是相當傳統，有些則很前衛。沒有什麼比親身體驗更棒的了，再說，讀書萬卷不如行路萬里。這趟導覽帶給每一個人滿滿的收獲和第一手的體驗。參與導覽的有大人和小孩（圖12），有聽眾也有解說志工。這是賓主盡歡最棒的例子。感謝每位解說員在解說過程中所投注的熱忱和努力，這天現場每個人都成為了那段令人懷舊又靜謐的過往的大使。希望下次聽眾裡會有更多人接下解說的棒子，也能帶領自己的小型導覽。畢竟，這也是外語導覽組的宗旨：將自己對歷史的熱忱和外語能力做結合。如果你對我們所做的事也感興趣，請加入這個不斷增長的旅程。請上ourtown.tw與我們聯絡，改變你的人生。
Learning the history of these old houses was another way of learning the history of the Zuoying old settlement. In this day and age, education is full of alternatives, while some of them are still very old school, others are pretty cutting edge. Nothing compares to the experience lived in first person; furthermore, “walking into the book” is way better than just opening it. The tour provided everyone with an abundant harvest and first hand experience. Among the attendees were children and adults (pic. 12), audience and volunteer speakers as well. It was the best showcase in which the guests enjoyed just as much as the hosts. Thanks to the passion and effort that the speakers put into their stories, everyone present that day in some ways became the ambassadors of the nostalgic and silent past. Let’s hope next time more members from the audience would take over and lead a mini tour of their own. After all, this is exactly what the foreign language tour group was meant for, to combine your passion in history with the ability to speak another language. If you’re interested in what we do, please join us in this journey to keep ever growing. Contact us at ourtown.tw and make a change in your life.
大人小孩一起同樂！
Happy times for adults and children alike!
大家努力完成工作單
finishing their worksheet
我知道啦！
Eureka!
