The ‘Hidden Gem’ of Kaohsiung’s Lotus Pond Old City of Fengshan’s Wuliting

文、攝影/ Constantine Tsarkos

翻譯/張翰笙

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鳳山左營舊城

Zuoying Old City of Fengshan

舊城是以其各式文化奇景而聞名,像是林立的寶塔、七彩斑斕的廟宇、宏偉的神像、小型紀念品商店、古樸的城牆甚亦是水上活動中心,全座落於鳳山左營舊城的蓮池潭。當你驚鴻一瞥地望向整口潭子,許會映入一個奇妙的構象,盡似浮於潭中,而那恰恰就是五里亭了。

The old city of Fengshan in Zuoying is famous for various cultural sights such as towering pagodas, colourful temples, imposing statues of gods and deities, small souvenir shops, an ancient wall and even a water activity center, all surrounding the Lotus pond of Zuoying’s old town of Fengshan. Blinking once or twice, while looking over the expansion of the pond, someone might notice a peculiar structure that seems to be almost floating over the pond that so happens to be the Wuliting Small Pagoda.

五里亭

Wuliting Small Pagoda

從遠處眺望,它就像被精細雕刻亦或在失傳的棋盤遊戲中會瞧見的木件,甚至給你一種一旦近觀彷彿會瞬眼即逝的海市蜃樓之錯覺,全看人們如何發揮想像力了。但不必擔憂,這個小瑰寶會亙久於此。 

From afar it might resemble a tiny board piece you'd find in some intricately carved and perhaps time-lost board game, some nobles would play in ancient times, or even as the mirage of an island oasis you think would disappear once you get close enough to see it clearly but that all depends on how well one gets along with their own imagination. Fear not for this little gem is there to stay. 

進入春秋閣的境內,你可以穿過上述的樓臺,發現自己徜徉在近120公尺之長的橋,讓走訪之人可以進到五里亭的畫面裡,人們會很想一探究竟,而這肯定也是當初建造工匠想使你如此感受這一切的緣由。

Upon entering the territory of the Spring and Autumn pavilions, you can walk through the aforementioned constructs to find yourself in front of an approximately 120 meters-long bridge, paving the way for visitors to access the wonders of Wuliting small pagoda. What are these wonders one might wonder and the author surely assumes that's the reason to read thus far in the first place. 

於1755年清領時期建造,但寶塔建於潭中的目的並未被詳記。透過與當地歷史學家的問談以及與老一輩的在地人閒話家常後,逐漸明瞭了,原來寶塔在歷史上被奉為佛、道教的靈魂支柱,像是祈福、冥想甚或宗教儀式。除此之外,它在信仰與文化上還有著象徵性的意義,代表著開蒙、心靈昇華及抵擋負面能量的侵擾。 

Constructed around 1755, during the Qing Dynasty’s rule of Taiwan, the purpose of the over-pond Wuliting pagoda is not extensively documented. After some conversations with local historians and some chit-chats with some senior locals, it became clear that the pagoda has historically served as a spiritual structure for Buddhist and Taoist religious activities, such as prayer, meditation and even religious ceremonies. Additionally, it has symbolic significance in religion and culture, representing enlightenment, spiritual ascent, or protection against negative forces.

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儘管不是直達蓮池潭中央,但它與潭邊有一定程度的距離,可以讓你盡享美景與寂靜。 在現在的時空裡,五里亭已是一個能置身寧靜、飽覽美妙日昇日落之景及能遠處賞鳥亦能同愛鳥人士近距離攀談的好去處。

Despite not being directly into the heart of Lotus Pond, it is situated a considerable distance from the shore allowing for a great view and serenity. In modern times the little pagoda of Wuliting is a place to enjoy peace, wonderful views of the sunrise, sunset and enjoy some distant bird watching or even some up close encounters with some friendly feathery friends. 

就在近水位置的第一層樓處,你可以看到那些享受寂靜的在地居民,有時可能還會打個小盹,也可能有嬉戲玩耍的孩子們;而第二層樓則是給那些想直接面朝日光的人,四周之景皆可納入眼簾,且在某些季節還可看到盛開的蓮花點綴蓮潭風光。

On the first level, right above the water, you can find locals enjoying that peace, sometimes even taking a nap, perhaps some kids playing, while the second level is where one would like to go to see the "faces of sun", the surrounding area including all the sights and, depending on the season, even the blooming lotuses covering a bit part of the Lotus Pond. 

想著這美好的一切,五里亭興許會是容易錯過的寶藏,可千萬值得一遊,可以是體驗在地文化、賞景、純粹地放鬆並遠離繁華喧囂或是利用此地高處盤算著自己的未來藍圖。

Considering all these, Wuliting little pagoda is an easy-to-miss gem that is more than worth the visit, whether you wish to experience local culture, enjoy the view, simply take a break from the noisy streets of the city over even just to use the vantage point to pinpoint your next target location.

總結:一個文化旅人在鳳山左營舊城的確幸

Summary of a cultural explorer’s delights in the Old City of Fengshan

1826年重建的古城牆、傳統市集、以巨大神像聞名的左營關帝廟、龍虎塔、孔廟、兒童公園及水上樂園活動中心皆是左營蓮池潭週邊的著名景點。大家可以在陽光明媚及恣意悠閒的週末時光體驗著這些美好事物,但儘管你已在半路上也很容易錯過這一方景色—從靠龍虎塔一邊湖的盡頭,一直到靠孔廟的另一頭,是得到最少關注與推薦的景色。春秋閣保護著五里亭寶塔的大門,並且在大門有開放之時,皆有對遊客開放。

The ancient wall that was rebuilt in 1826, the local markets, the Zuoying Yuandi Temple that is famous for the gigantic statue of the god it honors, the Dragon and Tiger pagodas, the temple of Confucius, the children's park, as well as an aquatic activity center are all famous sights surrounding the Lotus Pond of Zuoying’s Old City of Fengshan. With all these wonderful things someone could experience on a sunny and relaxed weekend, it's easy to miss the one sight that despite being halfway, from one end of the lake (Dragon and Tiger pagodas) to the other (Temple of Confucius) gets the least photons from the spotlight of suggestions. The Spring and Autumn pavilions guard the door to Wuliting small pagoda and it is open to visitors, during the hours that the doors of the Spring and Autumn pavilions are open.

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