Homage to the Greatest Master Ever–The First Confucius Temple in the Old Town of Fengshan City
文、攝影／龔書永
對於宗教文化愛好者來說，高雄左營舊城無疑是必訪之地，因為據說這裡是全台寺廟密度最高的地方。很少有人知道，左營舊城原稱鳳山縣城，但因早年政治軍事動亂，當時的居民只能無奈地移居到附近的聚落避難，因此才將這裡稱為「舊城」。但為什麼有這麼多寺廟呢？可能是因為在這個小地區有大量來自中國的定居者。就像其他國家的移民一樣，這些中國先民將自己的宗教帶到這個中國邊疆前哨。時間一久，供奉的各類神明不斷增加，以至於許多神明必須暫時供在其他主祀廟宇，就像「合租房子的房客」一樣。待信徒的捐款足夠為祂們買「新房子」時，有些神明就遷到新的地方，其他神明則永遠留在原本的廟中。這份好客之情充分體現台灣人整體的宗教寬容。
To religious culture lovers, a must-go destination is undoubtedly the Old Town in Zuoying, Kaohsiung; because it is said that this place has the highest temple density in all of Taiwan. Not widely known, the place was once called Fengshan city, but due to political and military unrest, residents of the time had no choice but to seek refuge in a nearby settlement, and hence the name of “Old Town.” But why so many temples? This is most probably due to the large number of Chinese settlers concentrated in such a small area. Just like immigrants in other countries, these early Chinese pioneers brought their own religion to this outpost of the Chinese frontier. Over time, the variety kept increasing to a point that many gods and deities became “tenants sharing a room” in the temple of another god. Some of them eventually relocated to a new place as soon as the donations coming from their own believers became large enough to buy them a “new house;” while others stayed for good. Such kind of hospitality speaks volumes about the religious tolerance of the Taiwanese in general.
在舊城的眾多寺廟和神殿中，有一座「空無一物」的廟宇特別引人注目。與其他寺廟不同的是，孔廟通常不會供奉任何宗教神像。在這座廟裡，簡約才是關鍵。這麼做的用意非常清楚：專心體會至聖先師的教導，其他的都無關緊要。這位名師是中華文化的偉大支柱之一。孔子重視個人品德、社會倫理、仁義信，以及君王對臣民的義務。祂最有名的一句話是「有教無類」。這在現代可能是很普遍的作法，但在2,500年前，這確實是一個領先時代的概念。孔子可說是奠定普及教育的先驅，其他後人只可說是在追隨和提倡祂的思想。
Of the many temples and shrines found here in the Old Town, one in particular stands out for being “empty and bare.” The Confucius temple typically displays no images of any religious characters as opposed to other temples. Simplicity here is the key. The message can’t be clearer; just focus on the doctrines of the great master, and the rest is irrelevant. This renowned teacher is one of the great pillars in Chinese culture. He emphasized personal morality, correctness of social relationships, justice, kindness, sincerity, as well as a ruler’s duty to his subjects. His all-time famous motto was “teaching for everyone without distinction.” In modern times, this may be a common practice, but two and a half thousand years ago it was indeed a concept that was way ahead of its time. He can be said to be the founding father of universal education, which made all others coming after mere followers and advocates.
大多數遊客都會被位於蓮池潭北端的孔廟的宏偉氣勢所吸引。但很多人不知道的是，在舊城國小的一個角落裡，隱藏著一座沒有太多裝飾和點綴的老舊祠堂（圖1~2）。這座祠堂稱為崇聖祠。 不懂中文的遊客可能不會注意到這座不起眼卻重要的歷史遺跡。事實上，這是舊城原孔廟的遺跡；另一座孔廟建於1970年代後期，用於舉行儀式。史料記載，中國清廷於1684年抵達臺灣，史上首次宣稱對這片土地擁有主權。不久之後，舊城設立了各個公署和軍事據點，方便政府進行行政管理。有趣的是，孔廟也是鳳山縣城（左營舊城的古稱）基礎建設的一部分。這代表它是國家資助的宗教場所，而不是在某人自己的土地上建造的較小私人神殿。這是因為孔廟肩負一項公共職責。信不信由你，自古以來，各地孔廟一直兼具教育機構的角色。正因如此，雖然孔廟的教育制度與現代教育體系相去甚遠，公學校也能併入孔廟之中。除此之外，早期每三年會舉行一次科舉考試，招募青年才子進入朝為官。每當這個時候，孔廟就會被當成科舉考場。既然「這座廟真正的主人」是至聖先師，祂當然沒有理由拒絕把廟當成考場。
Most visitors are enthralled by the majestic welcome of the Confucius Temple located at the northern end of the Lotus Pond. But unknown to many, hidden in a corner inside the Jiuo Cheng elementary school is an old and shabby shrine with neither much decoration or embellishment (pic. 1~2). It is called the Shrine of the Saint (崇聖祠). For visitors who can’t read Chinese, this inconspicuous yet essential historic site would have probably gone unnoticed. In fact, this is the remnant of the original Confucius Temple in the Old Town; while the other one was built much later in the 1970s for ceremonial purposes. According to historical records, Chinese authorities arrived in Taiwan in 1684 claiming for the first time in history the sovereignty of the land. Shortly after, public offices and military strongholds in the Old Town were built to facilitate government administration. Interestingly, the Confucius temple was also part of the infrastructure in the Fengshan city (old name of the town). That means it was a state-funded religious venue as opposed to smaller private shrines built on someone’s own property. And that’s because Confucius temples had a public duty to fulfill. Believe it or not, they had always doubled as educational institutions since ancient times; and this made it possible for public schools to be integrated into it, albeit the education system was a far cry from its modern counterpart. Aside from this, every three years, imperial exams were held to recruit young talents into government offices. At this point, the temple was used as an examination hall for the event. And since the “true owner of the temple” is the greatest teacher ever, there shouldn’t be any reason he would disagree.
隱身在舊城國小中不起眼的崇聖祠
Shrine of the Saint inconspicuously tucked away in a corner of Jiuo Cheng elementary school.
崇聖祠近照
a closer view.
早期文獻記載，寺廟的正門（櫺星門）原本位於蓮池潭岸邊，大約是今天舊城國小正門的位置，而崇聖祠則位於整座孔廟較後方之處。在中間的是大成門和大成殿。在兩側的分別是左右兩廡。 左廡是駐舊城清廷官員的居所，右廡則是書院（也就是現代所說的「學校」）教室。鑑於上述情況，日本人於1900年在寺廟原址建造了現在的舊城國小。不幸的是，為了騰出空間建造新的校舍，除了崇聖祠以外，其餘建築都被拆除，這也是為什麼如今整座孔廟只剩這座祠堂。即便如此，校園內仍散落著一些遺跡。在各個專家的幫助下，人們發現並確認部分花崗石塊。現在這些石塊被當成裝飾品，放置在學校入口附近的花園。經過考證，這些是門軸（軸座）和木樑的石座（臺座）（圖3~4）。崇聖祠前平臺入口處有兩塊狀似響鼓的石雕，有如「門衛」般地守護祠堂（圖4b~4d）。根據中國神話，這個像鼓一樣的生物是龍王的九個兒子之一：椒圖。椒圖性格安靜內斂，因此常被擺在寺廟入口處。中國寺廟常見這種以神獸作為裝飾的作法。人們根據祂們的「性格」擺放這些神獸，來突顯特定的意涵。以這裡為例，在祠堂入口擺放椒圖是為了保密從信徒那裡聽到的祈禱。
Based on some early documents, the main gate of the temple (called Lin-shin Gate) was originally located near the shore of the Lotus Pond, roughly where the main entrance of the elementary school is located today, while the shrine is at the far back end of the whole venue. In between were Ta-Chen Gate and Ta-Chen Temple. And on either side were the left and right pavilions. The one on the left was used as the living quarters of government officials stationed in the Old Town, while the one on the right was allocated for the classrooms of the academy (or simply “school” in modern terms). Considering the above, the Japanese built the current Jiuo Cheng elementary school in 1900 right on the place where the temple once stood. Unfortunately, save for the shrine, all the rest was torn down to make way for new school facilities, which is why it’s the only remaining original part of the temple left today. However, some remnants are still scattered around on campus. With the help of experts, some granite blocks were found and identified. They’re now arranged as a part of the garden decoration near the school entrance. And those proved to be door gudgeons (axle sockets) and stone plinths (pedestals) for timber beams (pic 3~4). Two drum-like stone carvings serve as “doorman” at the entrance of the patio in front of the shrine (pic. 4b~4d). According to Chinese mythology, this drum-like creature is one of the nine sons of the Dragon, Chiau-tu (椒圖). It is usually placed at the entrance due to its quiet and reserved nature. This common practice of using mythological creatures as decoration can be found in every Chinese temple. Based on their “personality,” they’re deployed around with a connotation about its purpose. In this case, it’s to keep secret everything overheard from the prayers of worshipers in the shrine.
當作橋樑裝飾的直立門軸，注意其帶有鐵鏽的插孔
door gudgeon standing upright as bridge decoration, notice the socket hole with iron rust.
木樑的石座
stone plinth for timber beams.
狀似響鼓的「門衛」
drum-like “doormen”
左「門衛」
left “doorman”
右「門衛」
right “doorman”
有個已經不見的結構相當值得一提，那就是稱為泮池的半月形水池。這種上有拱橋的半圓形池子通常會建在孔廟的正門外（圖5）。作為一種象徵儀式，所有的考生都會走這座橋進考場，代表「飛黃騰達」之意。在日治時期，舊城國小的行政單位決定建造一座迷你版泮池，來填補這「唯一遺失的部分」（圖6）。根據當地人的說法，從那時起，所有畢業生都必須過橋才能離開學校，這也成了該校傳統。
One missing link worth mentioning is the water pond in the shape of a half moonie, called Pan Pond (泮池) . This semicircular pond comes with an arch bridge over it, and is typically built outside the main gate of all Confucius temples (pic. 5). As a symbolic gesture, all examinees walk over the bridge to enter the examination hall suggesting a “quantum leap.” During the Japanese period, the administration of the elementary school decided to build a mini–Pan Pond to make up for “the only thing lacking” (pic. 6). And since then, according to the accounts of locals, as a school tradition all graduating students would have to cross the bridge before leaving.
左營新孔廟的泮池和拱橋
semicircular pond and arch bridge at the new Confucius temple in Zuoying.
近百年後，舊城國小的迷你泮池仍保有最初的用途
mini-Pan Pond still retaining its original purpose at Jiuo Cheng elementary school after almost a century.
部分專家聲稱，這座孔廟在 19 世紀時曾經整修過，變成了我們今天看到的樣子。此外，當時人們還用咕咾石砌成一座半圓形圍牆，藉由增設泮池，從「蓮池潭那兒偷來一點空間」，這也成了孔廟的延伸。然而，連年颱風肆虐加上缺乏維護，池子最後變得太淺，於是人們乾脆用土填起池子，將河岸外推到蓮池潭。如今在Google地圖上看，還能看出這個區段仍然保留原有的半圓形形狀（圖7）
Some experts claim that in the 19th century the temple underwent a renovation giving it the look we see today. In addition, they added a Pan Pond by building a semicircular wall with coral stones to “steal a small part from the Lotus Pond” and make it an extension of the temple. But due to yearly typhoons and lack of maintenance, the pond eventually turned too shallow and people simply covered it with soil to push the shore further into the Lotus Pond. Viewed from Google map today, that section still retains the original semicircular shape (pic. 7)
觀察舊城國小對街外的半圓形綠色區塊，可以明顯看出那裡曾是泮池的外圍輪廓
see the semicircular green area just outside the elementary school across from the street; it’s a clear indication of the outer line of the Pan Pond that once stood there.
在學校的另一個角落，也就是崇聖祠的後方，有十塊從舊城各處蒐集來的石碑，每塊石碑都述說自己的故事（圖 1）。這些美麗的石碑不只是好看而己。上面的碑文記載了許多歷史事件，詳實記錄人物、地點和日期等細節，為我們所知的史實提供可靠的佐證來源。十塊石碑中有一座特別引人注目，原因不在於它的大小或提供的資訊量，而是它的用途。這塊石碑高度大約只有大石碑的一半，上面也沒有幾個字。這是給往來路人看的下馬碑（圖9）。可以想見，以前只有少數的人負擔得起交通費用，其他的人幾乎都靠步行。下馬碑通常是立在寺廟、官府，甚至是顯要人士的宅第外面。上面刻的碑文命令往來路人下馬徒步行走，以表敬重。這些碑文形同聖旨，因此沒有遵守的人都會受罰，最重可被判處死刑。
In another corner of the school just behind the shrine is a parade of ten stelae collected from places scattered around in the Old Town, each one telling its own story (pic. 8). And there’s more to these beautiful works of art than meets the eye. Many historical events were confirmed by the inscriptions, specifying little details such as people, places, and dates. This is a reliable source of corroboration for historical facts as we know them. One of the ten stelae stands out catching the attention of visitors, not due to its size or the amount of information provided but instead for the purpose it served. It’s roughly half as tall compared to the big ones, and the number of Chinese characters is just a handful. It’s a dismounting stele for people passing by (pic. 9). It goes without saying that back in those days only a few could afford some kind of transportation, while the rest almost always went on foot. Dismounting stelae are often erected outside important venues such as temples, government offices, or even the residence of prominent figures among others. The message inscribed orders the traveler to dismount and simply walk past as a gesture of respect. They were regarded as an imperial decree; thus, anyone who fails to obey would be subject to punishment as severe as death penalty.
左營舊城各處蒐集而來的十塊知名石碑
a display of ten famous stelae collected from places scattered around in the Old Town.
下馬碑
dismounting stele.
這個理念來自儒家思想，而儒家思想規定了每個人應該扮演的角色，以便實現社會祥和。這提醒了我們那段封建時代的過往；不可思議的是，從那段歷史時期至今，我們已經取得了一番進步。文明會不斷發展，留下發人省思的痕跡。
This philosophy comes from Confucianism stipulating the roles of each and every individual with the goal of achieving social harmony. That’s a reminder of our feudal past; and it’s amazing that we have come a long way from that period in history. Civilization will always move on leaving behind a trace of food for thought.
在我們離開這個莊嚴的地方之前，還有一個東西值得一看。崇聖祠外牆上的一個開口，讓我們得以深入了解它的建造方式（圖10）。早期的中國定居者在建造公共基礎設施時面臨很大的挑戰。其所涉及的後勤規模可謂前所未有的艱難。當時的臺灣沒有磚窯和鋸木廂，所以所有建材都必須「從中國進口」。木材部件被切割成精確的尺寸，再運到現場進行組裝，建築師因此沒有機會在不上黏合劑的情況下先模擬組裝，視情況進行必要的調整。他們只能仰賴使用簡單手工具來組裝的工人的技巧了。屋頂和地板所用的磚瓦，全都是從海峽對岸的中國福建省運過來的。就連人力資源也是問題。建築師傅和工匠只能在工程期間以較高的工資招募。奇怪的是，清朝時期建造的主要城牆和公共基礎建設，全都集中在臺灣而不是中國。這是因為滿族在1644年入關掌權時（這段權力過渡時期相當和平），經營中國這個國家的必要「架構」已經完備。不過，正如前面所說，臺灣是比較晚才被納入大清帝國，這可能是因為臺灣地處偏遠的原故。因此，所有東西都得「從頭開始建造」。
Before we leave this magnificent place, there’s one more thing to watch. An opening in the outer wall of the shrine reveals a lot on how it was built (pic. 10). Early Chinese settlers faced a huge challenge in order to get the public infrastructure built. It meant an arduous logistic of unprecedented scale. Unlike other settlements, the problem here was a big barrier of sea water, the Taiwan Strait. Since no brick kilns and sawmills were available, everything would have to be “imported from China”. Timber parts were cut to exact dimensions only to be assembled here on the spot, giving the architect no chances to dry fit all parts and make little necessary adjustments. They could only rely on the skills of the people carrying out the job with simple hand tools. Bricks and tiles for the roof and the floor were all transported from Fu-Chien, a province in China on the other shore of the strait. Even human resources became a hurdle. Masters and craftsmen were recruited only for the time of the construction at a higher wage. Strange enough, major city walls and public infrastructures built during the Qing dynasty were all concentrated here in Taiwan instead of China. By the time they came to power in 1644, which was a rather peaceful transition, the necessary “framework” to run the nation in China was already all in place. But Taiwan, like aforementioned, was much later incorporated into the empire probably due to its remoteness. Therefore, everything here was “built from the ground up.”
儘管數個世紀過去了，左營舊城中的每個歷史遺跡仍在等待有人來述說並流傳它們精彩的故事。想要做到這點，唯一的方法是像你我這樣的普通人採取行動，成為這些歷史遺跡的代言人，為那段沉默的過去發聲。
Even though centuries have passed, each and every one of the historic sites here in the Old Town is still waiting for someone to tell and retell its intriguing stories. And the only way to materialize this endeavor is when ordinary people like you and me take action to be their ambassadors and even become the voice of the silent memories of the past.
