Rekindling the Dawn - The West Town Wall and the Remains of the Zhenyang Shrine
文 / 林亭妤
睿見舊城百年風光
Witnessing the Centennial Splendor of the Old City
左營舊城，在百年來歷經許多風雨及滄桑，歷史脈絡從荷蘭時期發展至今，我們都能窺見它不同的樣貌，尤其在「清領」與「日治」時期最為精彩，不管是在「產業」、「經濟」、「建築」，亦或是民間「風水」等，都是值得令人一窺究竟。本篇將著眼於舊城城門－西門與神社遺址的故事，讓我們隨著遺跡的軌跡，見證二戰期間所發生的歷史。原來這片土地上有許多鮮為人知、卻無法被抹滅的故事，充滿淚水，實實在在地發生過。
Zuoying Old Town, having endured numerous trials and tribulations over the past century, has a rich history that traces back to the Dutch period. We can catch glimpses of its diverse facets, especially during the fascinating periods of Qing dynasty and Japanese occupation. Whether it's in terms of industry, economy, architecture, or even local folklore such as Feng Shui, each aspect is worth exploring. This article will focus on the stories surrounding the old city gates - Simen (West Gate) and the shrine ruins, allowing us to follow the traces of these historical landmarks and witness the events that unfolded during World War II. It turns out that this piece of land holds many lesser-known but indelible stories, full of tears and genuine historical occurrences.
你所不知曉的西門身世
The Unknown Origins of The West Gate
在我們眼前的城牆，是於清道光六年（西元1826年）完工的石造城牆，代表著第二次建城的成果（第一次是土城）。這座城牆包含東、西、南、北四座城門，然而，至今只有北門（拱辰門）、南門（啟文門）及東門（鳳儀門）依然屹立。有人可能會好奇，西門呢？
The Town wall before us was completed in the sixth year of Qing Daoguang (1826 AD), constructed with stone to represent the achievement of the second town-building endeavor (the first being an earthen wall). This wall includes four gates facing east, west, south, and north. However, to this day, only the North Gate (Gongchen Gate), South Gate (Qiweng Gate), and East Gate (Fengyi Gate) remain standing. Some may wonder about the west gate ?
西門，即奠海門，「奠」有「安定」的涵義，面向左營軍港與台灣海峽，這座城門的名字象徵著對海域的安定祈願，希望出海的人們能夠平安出航並安全歸來。然而，歷經日治時期的拆卸工程，至今西門的身影消逝在歷史長河中。
The west gate, also known as the Deanhai Gate, with "Dean" carrying the connotation of "stability," faced the Zuoying naval base and the Taiwan Strait. The name of this gate symbolizes a prayer for stability in the maritime region, wishing for the safe departure and return of those setting sail. However, due to demolition efforts during the Japanese occupation, the silhouette of the west gate has vanished into the river of history.
跳轉到2013年，國防部展開眷村拆除工程，當眷戶陸續搬離後，挖掘過程中竟發現了西門城牆的遺跡與基座。2014年3月，西門城牆遺址重新展露曙光，確切位置也更加清晰，政府在評估後正式將其列為國定古蹟。而令人驚喜的是，舊城文化協會在城牆下方還發現了疑似日軍坊空壕的遺跡；而城牆上方則似乎存在神社的遺構，這引起了廣泛的注意。對於這是否為神社的疑問，還有待進一步的考古研究。協會決定針對此地進行深入調查，希望透過考古挖掘，揭開近百年的歷史事件和故事。
Fast forward to 2013, the Ministry of National Defense initiated the dismantling project of military dependents' villages. As residents gradually moved out, surprising discoveries unfolded during the excavation process – the remnants and foundations of the west gate were unveiled. In March 2014, the Simen City Walls site emerged once again, with town wall a clearer delineation, leading the government to officially designate it as a national historic site. To everyone's delight, beneath the wall, Kaohsiung Cultural Association uncovered what appeared to be remnants of a suspected Japanese military trench; meanwhile, above the wall, the existence of shrine structures raised widespread attention. The question of whether it was indeed a shrine remains open, pending further archaeological studies. The association decided to conduct an in-depth investigation, hoping that archaeological excavations would unveil the historical events and stories of nearly a century.
而「西門」的門額，目前被存放在高雄歷史博物館內，如果想深入了解，不妨前往博物館一探究竟，門額上的歷史故事必定令人嘆為觀止！這樣的文化挖掘不僅豐富了城市的歷史層次，也讓我們更加了解這段歷史的深刻內涵。
As for the gate plaque of 'the west gate,' it is currently housed in the Kaohsiung Museum of History. For those eager to delve deeper, a visit to the museum promises a glimpse into the captivating historical tales engraved on the plaque! Such cultural excavations not only enrich the layers of the city's history but also provide a profound understanding of this chapter in history.
建於城牆上的日式遺跡
Japanese Style Historic Site Erected on the Town Wall
回到城牆遺跡，舊城文化在發現西門城牆上有類似於本壇基座、水手缽（參拜者洗凈手的地方）及神社參道等遺跡，其中在水手缽的外觀可看見，表面刻有「雙勾玉」之圖樣，類似於陰陽太極，是日本赤穗市大石神社的「社紋」，然而，值得注意的是，台灣的神社建築並未出現此圖案。經過日本大學教授兼神社專家坂井久能先生的確認，在所有日本營內神社中，與左營本壇基座最相近的是「筑波海軍航空隊」的筑波神社，這也增加了震洋神社的存在可信度。此外，《回想薄部隊 : 海軍第二十震洋特別攻擊隊 》的書中記載：「戰敗後，先燒毀震洋神社。」、「神社安置於兵舍後城牆上」，這也進一步證實了此神社是在日治時期和二戰末期建置的。在左營舊城考察中，專家們找到了日本在海外僅存有限的神社遺址，這無疑是一項重要的發現，具備相當重要的文史價值。也為兩國文化的保存貢獻了一份心力。
Returning to the remnants of the town wall, Kaohsiung Cultural Association made a remarkable discovery on the west town wall. Similar to the base of honden (main hall), a temizuya (a place for worshippers to cleanse their hands), and ruins such as shrine approach path. Notably, on the temizuya, an engraving of a pattern known as 'Double Hook Jade' was identified, resembling the Yin-Yang Tai Chi . It is the "communal crest" of Oishi Shrine in Akō-shi , Japan. It's worth mentioning that this specific pattern is not typically found in Shinto shrines in Taiwan. Confirmation from Mr. Hisanori Sakai, a professor and Shinto expert from a Japanese university, revealed that Among all the Japanese camp shrines , the one most closely resembling the base of the main hall in Zuoying is the Tsukuba Shrine of the Tsukuba Naval Air Group, further strengthening the credibility of the existence of the Zhenyang Shrine.
Furthermore, the book 'Recollections of Bo troops: Naval No. 20 Zhenyang Special Attack Unit' documents that “ Zhenyang Shrine was burned after the defeat in war “and that “the shrine was located on the town wall behind the military barracks”, providing additional confirmation that this shrine was established during the Japanese colonial period and towards the end of World War II. In the exploration of the old town of Zuoying, experts uncovered limited surviving remnants of Japanese shrines overseas, marking a significant and valuable find with important cultural and historical significance. This discovery contributes to the preservation of the cultural heritage of both nations.
絕望的代稱，也是信仰寄託之處
A Symbol of Despair, Also a Sanctuary of Faith
前述提及的震洋特攻隊，「震洋」（しんよう）兩字，此名稱的由來是在太平洋戰爭末期，日本的戰力已嚴重受挫，為抵禦美軍，便採取自殺式攻擊，稱作－震洋特攻隊，與普遍大眾所知的「神風特攻隊」相同，換言之就是「人肉炸彈」，為搭載於水上的艦艇。震洋艇是一種船殼由特製三甲板而建成，長度約只有10公尺左右，寬則為2公尺，屬於非常小巧、輕型的艦艇；船的前端主要放置炸藥，後方則是豐田（TOYOTA）的引擎設備，整體構造相當簡易。
As previously mentioned, the Zhenyang Special Attack Unit, “Zhenyang”(しんよう) earned its name towards the end of the Pacific War when Japan's military strength was severely depleted. In an effort to resist the advancing American forces, Japan resorted to suicide attacks, known as the 'Shinyo Special Attack Unit.' Similar to the more widely known 'Kamikaze Special Attack Unit,' this approach involved utilizing human-piloted explosive crafts designed for deployment on water. The Shinyo boats were small, lightweight vessels with a custom three-layered hull, approximately 10 meters in length and 2 meters in width. The front of the boat housed explosives, while the rear accommodated Toyota engine equipment, making it a relatively simple structure.
到了1944年的臺灣，日本編組了10個營區，其分佈於台北基隆、高雄左營、關渡、屏東海口、澎湖西嶼等地區。而駐守於左營舊城附近的隊伍分別為第二十隊（薄部隊）、第二十一隊（竹內部隊）與第三十一隊（栗原部隊）。而震洋第二十一隊就位在西自助新村處。神社的建造可以說是為這些特攻隊士兵們，給予他們暫時的安定與平靜感，在動亂不堪的時期，士兵們隨時有失去性命的風險，唯一能做的事便只有訓練、操演、營社守衛或打野球等等。所以從神社遺址就可以感受到，當時來這裡祈福的士兵，他們的心情是多麼地五味雜陳...而殘存的遺址，更代表著此處留下了許多痛苦、難以言喻的悲傷碎片。
By 1944, Japan had organized ten camps in Taiwan, distributed in areas such as Taipei, Keelung, Kaohsiung's Zuoying, Guandu, Pingtung's Haikou, and Penghu's Xiyu. The teams stationed near Zuoying old town were the 20th Team (Bo Troops), the 21st Team (Takeuchi Troops) and the 31st Team (Kurihara Troops). Zhenyang 21st Unit was positioned near the xī zì zhù new village. The construction of shrines can be seen as providing temporary stability and a sense of peace to these Special Attack Unit soldiers during tumultuous times. In an era filled with chaos and the constant risk of losing their lives, soldiers could engage in activities such as training, exercises, camp security, or playing baseball. The remnants of the shrine site reflect the complex emotions of the soldiers who came here to pray. Their feelings during that time were undoubtedly a mix of various emotions. The surviving artifacts symbolize the pain and indescribable fragments of sorrow left behind in this place.
所幸，過沒有多久日本便戰敗投降，士兵們也就不需再執行任務，這也使得特攻隊成員得以保全性命。戰事結束後，有些人選擇於臺灣繼續生活；有些人則被遣返回日本。「震洋」兩字，著實不該被遺忘，身為高雄人，即便不是左營當地人，也都應該好好將這段歷史銘記於心，畢竟這邊曾有許多日本人、台灣人為了國家，不惜奮鬥犧牲...
Fortunately, Japan surrendered shortly after, bringing an end to the war. Soldiers were no longer required to carry out their missions, allowing the members of the Special Attack Units to survive. After the war, some chose to continue their lives in Taiwan, while others were repatriated to Japan. The name 'Zhenyang' should not be forgotten, and as residents of Kaohsiung, even if not originally from Zuoying, we should remember this history. After all, this place witnessed the struggles and sacrifices of many Japanese and Taiwanese individuals who fought for their “country”.
喚回土地記憶
Reviving Memories of the Land
透過對上述遺跡的深入探究，我們能夠了解到「考古學」在串連當地歷史脈絡方面所扮演的重要角色。往往我們僅能看見表面上的物景，卻不了解其背後的來龍去脈。那些看似不起眼的廢墟，實際上蘊藏著許多文史價值⋯這些古蹟曾是歷史長河中的瑰寶，我們怎能忽略這份豐厚的文化底蘊呢？
Through in-depth exploration of the relics mentioned above, we gain insight into the vital role that archaeology plays in connecting local historical contexts. Often, we only see the surface features without understanding the intricate details behind them. Those seemingly inconspicuous ruins actually hold significant cultural and historical value. These landmarks were once treasures in the river of history, and how can we overlook this rich cultural heritage?
現在還來得及，請細心深入了解與感受，就能聆聽到歷史的故事在你耳邊迴響。期望未來，我們能繼續在左營發現更多尚未揭曉的歷史遺蹟，漸漸還原舊城百年來的面貌。也讓更多人願意重視文史保存，並持續傳承左營的故事。讓我們共同喚醒這片土地所蘊藏的珍貴記憶。期待每一位深入探索的人，都能成為歷史的見證者，將這段珍貴的歷史故事傳承下去。
There is still time. Take the opportunity to carefully delve into understanding and experiencing, and you'll hear the echoes of history's stories in your ears. Looking forward, we hope to continue discovering more undisclosed historical sites in Zuoying, gradually unveiling the appearance of the old town over the past century. It also makes more people willing to pay attention to the preservation of literature and history and continue to pass on the story of Zuoying. Let us awaken the precious memories contained in this land together.We anticipate that everyone who embarks on this deep exploration becomes a witness to history, ensuring the transmission of these valuable historical stories.
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