導覽故事 - OUR TOWN

漫步哈瑪星之旅

Rose — Sat, 04 May 2024 06:14:58 +0000

Hamasen Walking Tour

編撰／龔書永

攝影／各篇章作者

高雄甜美的回憶

Sweet Memories of Kaohsiung–Hamasen

這座非凡城市的歷史無疑讓每位市民「回味無窮」。作為一名土生土長的高雄人，沒有什麼比見證現代高雄在一項非凡的工程壯舉中誕生更令我興奮的了。為了促進糖和其他台灣產品的出口，需要一條直接連接港口的鐵路。然而當時出現一個問題，在南台灣既沒有鐵路也沒有港口。於是在上個世紀之交，日本政權想出一個一石二鳥的巧妙計劃。最終，擴建打狗港（高雄港）便於適應現代商船，同時，鄰近的碼頭基礎設施也進行了大規模改造。挖土機械晝夜不停地工作，確保歷經四年艱苦卓絕的努力後，填海造地的進程得以完成。再再皆強而有力地證明了一個城市可以用非凡的方式「成長」。

The history of this extraordinary city certainly “leaves a sweet taste in the mouth” of every citizen. And as a native, nothing intrigues me more than seeing the birth of modern Kaohsiung within the matrix of a remarkable feat of engineering. In order to facilitate the exportation of sugar and other Taiwanese produced commodities, a railway directly connected to the port was needed. But there was one problem back then, we had neither of them in southern Taiwan. At the turn of the previous century, the Japanese regime came up with a clever project aiming at killing two birds with just one stone. As a result, Takao port (Kaohsiung) was expanded to better fit modern merchant vessels, while at the same time, the adjacent docking infrastructure received a whopping makeover. Dredging machines working around the clock made sure that the progress of land reclamation was finished after four years of backbreaking hard work. This is a compelling proof that a city can indeed “grow” in different ways.

1912年，打狗居民擁有了一個全新的港口，此外還有更多的旱地面積；事實上，這些新土地皆是由填海過程中產生的廢料形成的。臺灣歷史上首次從北到南通過一條「生命之路」的鐵路串連起來，成為了「臺灣的脊椎」，就像美國的繁榮小鎮一樣，在短短幾年內，高雄就從一個偏僻的小漁村變成了媲美同時代其他主要城市，與之並駕齊驅的港口城市。成為擁有像樣商港的交通樞紐後，新興企業蓬勃發展充斥著周邊地區，來自全島各地的購物者和遊客人在街道上熙熙攘成為了日常景象。許多創舉皆發生在這片新的填海區，例如自來水、電力線路、郵政服務、電話、新學校、公共交通、棋盤式街道格局等等。由於新的火車站，日本人將這個地方命名為「哈瑪星」(Hamasen)，意思是「海濱鐵路線」。

In 1912, Takao residents had a brand-new port in addition to more square miles of dry land; which was in fact the landfill formed by the waste created in the process. For the first time in history, Taiwan was joined from north to south by a “life-giving” railway. This became “the spinal cord” of Taiwan, and akin to the boom towns in America, within just a few years, Kaohsiung went from a small fishing village backwater to a port city on par with other major contemporaries. Once becoming a transportation hub with a decent merchant harbor, spawning new businesses filled the nearby area, and streets teeming with shoppers and visitors from all over the island became a daily occurrence. Many innovations took place in this new man-made district, things like running water, electrical power lines, postal service, telephone, new schools, public transportation, checkered street patterns, to name but a few. Thanks to the new train terminal, the Japanese named this place “Hamasen”, which translates into “coastal railway line.”

這方應許之處成為新創企業和中小型創業公司的聖地。就在此時，外地人開始湧入，經過多年的奮鬥和發展，最終將此地視為家園。在車站垂直的街道上，有銀行和金融服務總部、保險公司、自行車店、高級飯店、餐廳、供應鏈物流等。難怪儘管這條路不到200公尺長，仍受譽為「高雄的華爾街」。這充分說明了在此地每日皆進行著大量的商業交易。簡言之，哈瑪星可以說是現代高雄的傳奇起點。毫無疑問，在當地人心中，這是一個無需刻意「粉飾」的宏偉故事。

This promised land became the holy grail of new entrepreneurs and startup medium and small businesses. It was around this time when out-of-towners started gushing in and eventually made this place home after years of striving and thriving. On the avenue perpendicular to the station were the headquarters of banking and financial services, insurance company, bicycle shop, top-notch hotel, restaurant, supply chain logistics, and many more. No wonder it was dubbed “the Wall Street of Kaohsiung” despite running for less than 200 meters. This speaks volumes about the insane amount of commercial transactions taking place on a daily basis. In a nutshell, Hamasen is arguably the legendary kick-start of modern Kaohsiung city. And unquestionably, in the minds of locals, this is a magnificent story that needs no “sugar coating.”

步行遊覽包括以下七個站點：
The walking tour covered the following seven stops:

1. 打狗驛 Takao station

2. 春田館支店 Haruta Hotel

3. 三和銀行 Sanwa Ginko

4. 山形屋 (壹貳樓) Yamagataya bookstore

5. 愛國婦人會館 Takao Patriotic Women Hall

6. 武德殿 Butokuden Martial Arts Hall

7. 打狗尋常高等小學校--鼓山國小 Takao Ordinary Senior Elementary School

打狗鐵道故事館

Takao Railway Museum

文／朱莉

1860年，清朝在與英法聯軍的戰爭中失敗，台灣遭迫開放港口。高雄港（舊稱打狗港）是列入開放的港口之一。然而，清政府忽視了如港口深度不足等舊問題，淤積問題越發嚴重，最終外國商人棄用高雄港而轉往安平，導致高雄港再次逐漸衰落。

In 1860, the Qing Dynasty lost the war with the British and French forces, and Taiwan was forced to open a port. Kaohsiung Port (known as Takao) was one of the listed opening ports. However, the Qing government ignored old problems such as insufficient depth, and the siltation became more and more serious, and eventually foreign businessmen abandoned Kaohsiung Port and moved to Anping, causing Kaohsiung Port to gradually decline again.

1895年，日本佔領台灣，他們對這個新統治的地方有著不同的想法。幾經調查與討論，決定以糖業為台灣發展的重點。那麼貨物該如何運輸呢？日本開始建造鐵路，方便通過港口將貨物運回日本。1900年，高雄至臺南段首先通車。貨物可以快速運回日本。然而，通車後發現車站（舊稱打狗停車場）離港口有一段距離，使得貨物裝卸非常不便。於是台灣總督府採取了填海造地的方法，哈瑪星地區順應而生。此後，在1905年，鐵路向南延伸至碼頭，該地區因此被稱為「哈瑪星」，意為海濱鐵路線。1908年，位於現址的打狗停車場竣工。1920年，打狗停車場更名為高雄驛（高雄車站），成為台灣最大的貨運站。後來，更名為高雄港驛，如今為舊打狗故事館。

In 1895, the Japanese occupation of Formosa. They had different thoughts about this newly governed place. After investigation and discussion, they decided to focus on the sugar industry as Taiwan's development. How do you get the goods transported? Japan began to build a railway to send the goods back to Japan via the port. The section from Kaohsiung to Tainan was first opened to traffic in 1900. Goods can be quickly shipped back to Japan. However, after it was opened, it was discovered that the Station (called Takao depot at the time) was some distance away from the port, making cargo loading and unloading very inconvenient. So the Taiwan Governor-General resorted to land-reclamation, and the Hamasen area was born. Later, in 1905, the railway was pulled southward to the pier, so this area was called "Hamasen," meaning beach railway line. In 1908, the Takao Station located in the current location was completed. In 1920, the name of Takao Station was changed to Kaohsiung Station (Kaohsiung Railway Station), which is the largest freight station in Taiwan. Later, it was renamed Kaohsiung Port Railway Station. Now it’s the Story House of Jiudagouy.

1941年，客運和貨運列車分開。高雄驛遷至愛河東側的大港庄（大港埔），原址改名為高雄港驛，專用於貨物運輸。1945年1月二戰結束，美軍在台灣開始了大規模與密集的轟炸，由於高雄的工業和軍事重要性而成為了炮轟的目標。作為陸海運輸樞紐的高雄港在戰後遭受嚴重損壞。現存車站為1947年重建，並於2003年，宣告為歷史建築。2008年11月9日，最後一列火車於下午5點30分從車站出發。車站關閉後，鐵道文化協會將車站改造為打狗鐵道故事館。該博物館目前歸屬高雄市歷史博物館的一部分。

In 1941, passenger and freight trains were separated. The Takao Station was relocated to Taikō Village (Tai-káng-po) on the east side of the Love River, and the original location was renamed Kaohsiung Port Station featuring the development exclusively for cargo. In January 1945 at the end of World War II, the US army began a large-scale and intensive bombing in Taiwan. Kaohsiung was the target due to its industrial and military importance. Kaohsiung Port, which was the land and sea transport hub, was severely damaged after the war. The existing station was rebuilt in 1947. It was declared a historical building in 2003. On the 9th of November, 2008, the last train departed from the station at 5.30 p.m. After the station closure, the Railway Culture Society managed the station as the Takao Railway Museum. The museum is currently part of the Kaohsiung Museum of History.

高雄港驛是台灣保存最完好的貨運車站。2010年10月，高雄市政府文化局接手此處，並改造成打狗鐵道故事館，展示了其在1960年代和1970年代全盛時期的氛圍。

Kaohsiung Port Station is the best-preserved freight station in Taiwan. It was adopted by the Cultural Affairs Bureau of Kaohsiung City Government in October 2010 and transformed into a Takao Railway Story Museum, showing the atmosphere of its heyday back in the 1960s and 1970s.

2017年9月，輕軌哈瑪星站開通。該站保留了完整的月台和號誌樓。此外，該博物館還擁有首間對外開放的鐵道資料室，可供閱讀和資料查詢。這裡除了鐵道書籍和資訊外，還保存著1951年至今的《鐵路公報》。

In September 2017, the light rail Hamasen Station was opened to traffic. The station kept the platform and the signal building completely preserved. The museum also has the first railway reference room for the public. For reading and data searching, in addition to railway books and information, there is also a Railway Bulletin from 1951 to the present.

全盛時期，高雄港驛有許多列車，並設有「北號誌樓」用於車輛調度和信號切換。這是台灣唯一保留完整聯動裝置的機械式號誌樓，並視為舊打狗車站故事館的重要資產。

In its heyday, Kaohsiung Port Station had many trains and had a "North Signal Building" for vehicle mobilization and signal switching. This is the only remaining mechanical signal building in Taiwan that retains complete linkage devices. It can be seen as the asset of the old Takao Station Story Museum.

春田館支店

Haruta Hotel

文／路易斯

哈瑪星剛建成不久，無疑地就成為了台灣主要城市中的「後起之秀」。有趣的是，當時世界其他地方經歷了繁榮的20年代，接著又陷入了像坐雲霄飛車一樣的大蕭條。在早期入駐的企業中，春田館旅社是其中之一。最初1896年於台中開業，第二家分店於1907年在打狗落成，再再皆顯出前景一片美好。與許多鄰近的建築一樣，該旅社是一棟兩層樓的木質建築，有著四坡屋頂；但相似之處僅此而已。打狗春田館支店提供頂級住宿和餐飲服務，來往賓客不乏商務旅客、官員、顯要人物以及有能力負擔奢華消費的富人。據資料顯示，僅一晚的奢華住宿費用就等同於一套定制西服的價格。由於位置就在火車站對面，經常成為貴客與行家的首選。

Shortly after it was inaugurated, the Hamasen district was arguably “the rising star” among the major cities in Taiwan. Interestingly enough, it was also the time when the rest of the world experienced the Roaring Twenties followed by the Great Depression very much like riding in a roller-coaster. Among the early businesses that arrived was the Haruta Hotel. Initially opened in Taichung in 1896, the second branch store materialized here in Takao by 1907, this is an obvious indication of the good prospects ahead. Like many of its nearby neighbors, it was a two-story wooden building with a hip roof; but that’s where the similarities end. The Takao Haruta Hotel provided top-notch accommodation and dining services for business travelers, officials, prominent figures, and all those who could afford a staggering splurge. According to some sources, the money for just one night of luxury was the equivalent of a tailor-made suit. And thanks to its location just across the train terminal, it was frequently the first choice of special VIPs and connoisseurs.

旅社提供23間客房，為各類客人與訪客提供各式不同的房型，然而場地內並無游泳池或其他設施。按當時的標準，春田館的規格可說是超乎人們的期待。令人遺憾的是，該旅社於二戰空襲中遭摧毀，留下的記錄不足以支持1951年的原貌重建。如今的春田館是一棟四層鋼筋混凝土結構建築，使用了許多從日本時期繼承下來的建築元素；例如裝飾性的圓柱、西式的主入口與窗戶，而木質桁架四坡屋頂用以減輕承重，外牆亦以灰泥塗飾。無可否認，儘管並非原始建築，但確實自成一格。也許對某些人來說，這無非是傑作遭到玷污，然無論如何，春田館已然從其遺產中超越，成為了奢靡與豪華的代名詞。

With 23 rooms available, they offered different room types for guests and visitors of all kinds, but of course, it didn’t have a swimming pool or other amenities within its premises. By the standards of the time, the Haruta Hotel was even more than anyone could ever ask for. Sadly enough, it was destroyed during the air raids in WW2 leaving insufficient records for its rebuilding in 1951. The current Haruta Hotel is a four-story RC structure building using many of the architectural elements inherited from the Japanese period; such things like additional round pillars for cosmetic purposes, western style main entrance and windows, wooden truss hip roof for lighter weight, and stucco washing finish for the exterior walls. Undeniably, it does have its own style despite not being the original, and maybe for some this can be like a paint smudge on a masterpiece. Regardless, something that transcended from its legacy was the fact that Haruta became a synonym of extravagance and luxury.

圖／Michael Lin 自臉書雄中鄉土文化研究社

provided by Michael Lin from FB 雄中鄉土文化研究社

三和銀行

Sanwa Bank

文／路易斯

該棟銀行建築為1921年成立之三十四銀行分行。1933年，歷經一系列合併談判，更名為三和銀行。1945年台灣從日本回歸中華民國後，三和銀行高雄分行與其他分行合併為台灣銀行。隨後，該銀行建築轉為高雄市警察局新濱派出所的財產。1990年，由於空間擁擠，警察局搬遷至現址。此後，該建築一直閒置。

The bank building was the branch of Sanjushi-Ginko Bank set up in 1921. In 1933, the bank was changed to Sanwa Bank after a series of merging negotiations. After the handover of Taiwan from Japan to the Republic of China in 1945, the Kaohsiung branch of Sanwa Bank was merged with other branches into the Bank of Taiwan. The bank building was then turned into the property of Sinbin Police Station under the Kaohsiung City Police Department. In 1990, the police station was moved to its current location due to space congestion. The building has then been idle.

銀行使用鋼筋混凝土梁柱結構，外牆覆蓋土黃色面磚與灰泥粉飾，其天花板內部則鋪設竹子並塗佈灰泥。

The bank uses reinforced concrete beam-column structure. Its exterior walls are covered with khaki face bricks and stucco washing finish. Its ceiling is mud-plastered with bamboo inside.

愛國婦人會館

Takao Patriotic Women Hall

性別平等是當今最熱門的話題之一，有時意見交流可能會導致震撼人心的結論。無論是雜誌、電視節目，還是社交媒體，討論從未遠離此話題「震央」。筆者發現打狗愛國婦人會館建於1922年時，著實深感震驚，因為在日本文化中很少有崇尚女性角色的情況。此外，還得考慮到其建造地點，哈瑪星地區。那是一個多數人幾乎未曾聽說「女權主義」這個詞彙的時代，更遑論在寸土寸金的地方建造一個崇尚女性的會所。許多人不禁思索是何原因要為此項計畫付出此等開支與努力。

Gender equality is one of the hottest conversation topics nowadays, and sometimes the exchange of opinions can lead to earth shattering conclusions. Whether it’s a magazine, a TV show, or even social media, the discussion is never too far from the “epicenter.” As soon as I found out that the Takao Patriotic Women Hall was built in 1922, I was so taken aback since the role of women is rarely exalted in Japanese culture. Furthermore, we need to take into account the location in which it was built, the Hamasen area. It was a time when most people hardly ever heard of the word “feminism,” not to mention building a venue in a place with skyrocketing real estate value in honor of women. Many will wonder what kind of cause could have justified such expenses and effort put into the project.

然而，不可否認的是，女性在文明史上一直是佔有舉足輕重的角色；最重要的是，女性撐起半片天。早在20世紀上半葉，女性在台灣甚至參舉國家事務，並構成了一股不容忽視的力量。也許協會的成員本身並不顯赫或功成名就，但在某些方面她們確實能發揮影響力。她們或許來自富裕家庭，亦或有著成就卓著的配偶。在涉及「衡量」女性價值這件事上，雖沒太大差異，然她們籌集捐款並組織志願團體，支持國家在滿洲和朝鮮半島的外交事務，甚至後來的南太平洋戰爭亦有所貢獻，提供了護理、教學、兒童照顧、戰爭後勤等等各種服務。由於那是一個緊縮的時期，每個人的貢獻都至關重要，無論性別，都以某種方式有所體現。

However, there’s no denying that women have always played an essential role in the history of civilization; above all, they are the other half of the sky. As early as the first half of the 20th century, here in Taiwan, women constituted a force to be reckoned with, even in national affairs. Maybe the members of the association were not prominent or successful themselves, but in some ways they were certainly influential. They may be from a well to do family, or have a spouse with outstanding achievements. When it comes to “calibrating” the value of women, things have not changed too much after all. They raised funds from donations and organized volunteer groups to support the nation’s foreign affairs in Manchuria and the Korean peninsula, and later even in the South Pacific war effort. Among the services provided were nursing, teaching, childcare, war logistics, you name it. And since it was a time of austerity, every individual’s contribution counted in one way or another regardless of gender.

至於建築，明治維新時期引入了西方風格，並融入了日本元素，設計時著實注重一切細節，以便適應台灣亞熱帶的氣候。這座兩層建築即使按現代觀點評價亦採用了創新技術；它結合了高架地基以獲得更好的通風和濕度控制，磚石主結構提供強度更高的支撐力，長窄窗戶方便獲得更佳的通風與日照，木質四坡屋頂大大地減輕重量，外牆採用清水磚訴求簡約與風尚，增加樓高從而改善了空氣對流，屋頂邊緣懸挑便於安裝檐溝等等。從某種意義上說，這多少就是今日所謂的綠建築。

As for the architecture, the Meiji restoration saw the introduction of western styles with Japanese motifs blended in between. They certainly paid close attention in designing everything to better fit into the subtropical weather in Taiwan. The two-story building features innovative techniques even by modern standards. It combines a raised foundation for better ventilation and humidity control, masonry main structure for stronger support, long narrow windows for better ventilation and illumination during the day, timber hip roof for lighter weight, fair-face bricks on exterior walls for simplicity and style, increased floor height for better air convection, overhanging roof ends for better gutter installation, to name just a few. In a sense, this is more or less what we call a green building today.

回顧過去，百年前的人確實比想像中的要先進得多。相信很多人都想穿越時空回到過去，體驗一下懷舊的過往；但在時光機發明前，可說唯一的方法就是參加漫步之旅。若有人想參與其中，誠摯歡迎！

Looking back, people 100 years ago were indeed way more ahead of their time than we think. I’m sure many of you would love to go on a journey back in time to get a taste of the nostalgic past; but before time machines become available, it’s safe to say that the only way to do so is to join a walking tour. If anyone wants to work on this, be my guest!

圖／Carter 自高雄畫刊高雄市政府新聞局

provided by Carter from 高雄畫刊高雄市政府新聞局

武德殿

Butokuden Martial Arts Hall

文／曼庭

大家好。如同所見，這裡有幾根柱子對吧？這些柱子與古羅馬建築中的柱子十分相似，尤其是像Colosseum的柱子，中文把Colosseum稱為「羅馬競技場」。哦，忘了提到，這是台灣一座非常有趣的建築，因為它結合了東西方文化。關於這些柱子，待會兒會多介紹一些。如同方才所提，這些柱子與羅馬建築中的柱子非常相似，這種特殊的柱式稱為「Tuscan Order」，或中文叫「托斯坎柱式」。

Hello, everyone. As you can see, there are a few pillars here, right? These pillars are pretty similar to the pillars in classical Roman architecture, especially for the Colosseum. In Chinese, we call it "羅馬競技場". Oh, I forgot to mention. This is a really interesting building in Taiwan because it combines Western and Eastern culture. As for the pillars, I’m going to talk more about them. Like I just said, the pillars are pretty similar to the pillars in Roman architecture. We call this special kind of pillar” Tuscan Order”, or “托斯坎柱式" in Chinese.

接下來要介紹武德殿的東方風格部分，如眼前所見，此建築有個波浪形屋頂。這在台灣可是一種相當獨特的屋頂，因為其設計風格源自日本。若有機會參訪日本當地古建築，如寺廟、神社和城殿，可能會見到類似的屋頂設計。在台灣，這種特殊的屋頂稱為「唐破風」，也就是日語中的「Karahafu」。

Next, I am going to explain the Eastern part of Butokuden. As you can see, there is a wavy rooftop. It’s a pretty special rooftop in Taiwan because the design style is from Japan. If you have a chance to visit local old buildings in Japan, like temples, shrines, and castles, you may see similar rooftops like that. In Taiwan, we call this special kind of rooftop "唐破風" or “Karahafu” in Japanese. Sorry for my Japanese pronunciation.

讓我們移步室內，我將介紹武德殿的內部樣貌。這裡是武德殿中央，左邊是柔道訓練的地方，右邊是劍道場，地方相當大。你可能會懷疑：「嗯？是真的嗎？」事實上，這個場地可容得下100個人。

Let’s step inside. I am going to introduce the internal look of Butokuden. This is the middle of Butokuden. On my left is the place for Judo training, and the right side is for Kendo. This place is pretty huge. You might think” Oh? really?” In fact, this place can house 100 people.

歷史

History

文／翌慈

你知道高雄另一個武德殿在哪裡嗎？那就是旗山的武德殿。

Do you know where is the other Butokuden in 高雄? That is the Butokuden in 旗山 .

那麼，武德殿有何過人之處呢？請聽我娓娓道來。首先，打狗武德殿建於1924年，當時正值日治時期，二戰後，此處改用作教室和宿舍。然而它曾遭閒置一段時間，環境也變得雜亂。2003年，政府計劃對其進行翻修，一年後竣工。

So, what is so special about Butokuden? Let me tell you. First of all, Takao Butokuden was built in 1924 during the Japanese colonial period. After the second war, it was used as a classroom and dormitory. But it had been sitting there for a while and the environment was messy. In 2003, the government planned to renovate it, and a year after, it was completed.

其次，打狗武德殿的道館原名「振武館」，有振興武德之意涵。

Second, the original name of Takao Butokuden is 振武館 in Chinese, it means to develop the value of soldiers.

最後來談談裝飾。柱子有兩種形狀，一種是方形，另一種是圓形。方形代表陋習(有棱有角)；然而，學習武術鍛鍊後，將打磨棱角，成為更好的人。

Finally, it is the decorations. The pillars are two shapes. One is the square and the other is the circle. The squares stand for bad habits; however, after learning the martial arts, you get rid of bad habits and become a better person.

外牆上刻有箭、靶合體的浮雕，意味著傳統活動與祝福心想事成。

On the outside wall are pictures in relief with an arrow piercing the bullseye, which means the traditional activity and blessing.

藉由導覽，大家一定學到許多關於武德殿的知識，希望各位能與家人、朋友分享所聞，感謝聆聽。

Through our tour, you must learn more about Butokuden and hope you can share what you’ve learned with your family and friends. Thank you for listening.

打狗第一小學校的故事

Takao Ordinary Senior Elementary School

文／朱莉

打狗第一小學校，簡稱「一小」，原名為「打狗尋常高等小學校」，創校於1907年5月24日（明治40年）。因校舍尚未建成，當時暫借鹽埕庄一座私宅作為臨時校舍，專供日本子弟就學。當時，打狗有653戶日本家庭，共計1,730人。

Takao No.1 Elementary School, referred to as "No. 1", was originally named "Takao Ordinary Senior Elementary School". It was founded on May 24, 1907 (Meiji 40). Since the school building was not built yet, they temporarily borrowed a private house in Yancheng Village as a stopgap. It provided education for Japanese children. At that time, there were 653 Japanese households in Takao with 1,730 people.

1908年（明治41年），打狗港第一期建設工程動工，哨船頭街一帶成為相關技術人員聚集地，有935戶日本家庭，共計2,394人在此工作。1911年，學校遷至打狗山麓校舍（確切校址不明）。

In 1908 (Meiji 41), the first phase of the Takao Port construction project began. The area around Shao Chuantou Street became a gathering place for relevant technical personnel. There were 935 Japanese households with 2,394 people working at Takao Port. In 1911, the school was relocated to the foot of Takao Mountain (the exact school address is unknown)

1913年，打狗尋常高等小學校遷至目前的位置，即臨海二路50號（按明治時期的國民小學，若是四年制，則稱為初等學校；若是六年制，則稱為高等小學校）。

In 1913, Takao Ordinary senior Elementary School moved to the current location at No. 50, Linhai 2nd Road (according to the Meiji era, if the national elementary school had a four-year system, It is called an elementary school; if it is a six-year system, it is called an institution of higher learning).

左營舊聚落古厝參觀記

Rose — Wed, 10 Apr 2024 06:47:59 +0000

Visiting Ancient Houses in the Zuoying Old Settlement

編撰／龔書永

攝影／活動工作人員

沒有什麼比參觀左營舊聚落的古厝更讓我興奮的了。左營舊城又稱鳳山縣舊城，是現代高雄市的發源地。觀察數百年前人們的生活方式是很有趣的，因為這些古厝充分展現當時人們的價值觀和哲學，也是帶領我們踏上時光之旅的通道。這類史跡目前尚無確切的英文翻譯，為了簡單起見，這裡就統稱為「古厝」（old house）；只是嚴格來說，稱為「歷史建物」（historical house）、「古宅」（old mansion）也是一樣的意思。想要深入了解更多內容，請上ourtown.tw看我寫的另一篇報導：「住在古城中絲綢與緞紋交織而成的奢華宅邸」（Living in silk and satin–Opulent mansions of the Old Town）。那還等什麼呢？來吧，我們走！

Nothing gets me more excited than visiting ancient dwellings in the Zuoying old settlement. This place is also called Fengshan Old Town since this is the place where it all started here in modern Kaohsiung City. It’s intriguing to see how people lived hundreds of years ago. These old houses speak volumes about their values and philosophy; and they’re in fact a gateway taking us on a journey back in time. Now that there’s no exact translation in English for such historical relics, we’ll just call them “old house” for the sake of simplicity; even though “historical house”, “old mansion” and the like can all be viewed as the same thing technically speaking. If you are interested in more content about this topic, please go to ourtown.tw and check out another coverage I’ve written called “Living in silk and satin–Opulent mansions of the Old Town.” Well, what are we waiting for? Come on, let’s go!

準備展開步行導覽
Getting ready for the walking tour

當日小隊協調員和解說員：亞瑟（左二）、巴比（左三）、夏天（左四）、梅伊（右後五）、傑（右一）
Team coordinators and speakers of the day: Arthur 2nd left, Bobby 3rd left, Summer 4th left, May 5th right at the back, and Jay 1st right

第一站：一甲余家古厝

First Stop: The Yu Family’s Old House

文／梅伊

余家古厝位於左營舊聚落一甲，建於清乾隆年間。余家曾經出了一位武官暨前高雄縣長於—余登發。

Yu Family ancient mansion is located in the1st district (一甲) in the old settlement of Zuoying, and it was built in the Qianlong period of the Qing Dynasty. From this family came a military attaché as well as a former county magistrate, Yu Dengfa.

這裡之所以稱為「一甲」，是因為在日據時代，日本人將每十戶人家劃分為一個甲，這個劃分單位能讓日本官員統計該區共有多少戶人家，據此計算可以徵召多少士兵。

Why we call “一甲” , because it’s from the Japanese occupation era ,10 families form a 甲, it’s a unit to let the official to count how many families in this area, so they can calculate how many soldiers they can recruit.

從房子的外觀，例如魚鱗狀的屋頂，可以看出這是一座閩式建築（圖4）。房子入口懸掛「山海鎮」門額。這原本是幫助鎮宅化煞、轉禍為祥的風水寶物，是臺灣常見的門額，具有驅邪的作用。門額是由鏡子或木牌構成，上面繪有五嶽一海，同時寫著「我家如山海，他作我無妨」。意思是「我家已經化為自然景觀，任何邪靈都無法影響到我家」。

We can see from the appearance of the house , it’s a Fujian style architecture, for example the roof is like the scale of the fish (Pic. 4) and there is a “山海鎮 lintel plaque hung at the entrance of the house. It was originally a feng shui treasure that can help control the house and turn evil into auspiciousness. It is common door lintels in Taiwan to expel evil spirits. It is connected by a mirror or a wooden sign, with five mountains and a sea painted on the head, which reads My home is like mountains and seas, and the rest has nothing to do with me. It means “My home has turned into a natural landscape, and any evil spirit will have no effect on my house.”

在最繁華的時期，房子旁邊有一個紅磚蓋的豬圈。在當時牲畜等同是家產，所以需要日夜守護這些財產。

During the most prosperity period, there was a red brick pigsty aside the house. Livestock is a kind of their property; they need to keep an eye on it day and night.

過去這裡有兩口井。在思想保守的時代，用水也必須符合性別規範。左前方的稱為「龍井」，一般為男性使用，右前方的稱為「虎井」，供女性專用。我們可以感受到古厝的輝煌和洋溢的幸福感。

There were even two deep wells. In an era of conservative thinking, water use must also comply with gender norms. The front left is called “dragon well”, which is normally used by men, and the front right is called “tiger well” for women only. We can feel the splendor of the ancient house and the full happiness.

1950年代，左營地區是一整片的農地，主要農作物是「菱角」；這裡也是花生的集散中心。在當時，左營舊城周邊不少店家都會到高雄和屏東一帶收購花生，加工成花生製品來販售。隨著產業變遷和都市更新，農地變成建地，花生加工店家數量逐漸減少，僅剩幾家至今仍在營業。永豐花生糖是當地掛上招牌營業的店家。創店地點就在余家古厝。如今經營店鋪的第三代也肩負維護古宅的責任。

In the 1950s Zuoying area was an entire agricultural land, and the main crop was “water chestnut” ; it was also a distribution center for peanuts. Back then, many shops around Zuoying old town went to Kaohsiung and Pingtung to purchase peanuts to sell them as processed goods. With industrial changes and urban renewal, all agricultural land was converted into construction land, and the number of peanut processing shops dwindled, with only a few still operating today. Yung Feng永豐peanut candy is the store that fit up its signboard in that time. It was found in this ancient house of the Yu family. Now the shop owner is the third generation, meanwhile in charge of keeping this old mansion.

與梅伊攝於余家古厝

At the Yu family old house with May

屋瓦形似魚鱗

roof tiles resembling the scales of a fish

第二站：蘇家古厝

Second Stop: The Su Family’s Old House

文／林一成

參觀左營舊城古厝，感受其傳遞的價值和傳承的文史記憶。

Visit to the old house of Zuoying Old City to appreciate their value delivered and historical and cultural memories passed on.

歡迎各位光臨，感謝大家特別撥出時間來認識左營地區的古厝。各位的參觀能讓這些古厝的價值傳得更廣，並為未來累積更多記憶。

Welcome you all and thank you for taking your time to get acquainted with the old houses in the Zuoying area. Your moves keep the value impact in wider scope and the buildup of memories for the future.

我的名字叫一成，讓我向各位介紹左營舊城二甲地區的蘇家古厝。幸運的是，這棟古厝是目前保存完好的古厝之一，也是現存20到30座古厝之一。不過很可惜的是，原有的150到200座古厝中，約有80%已被拆除，用於建造現代建築，或是因為經濟因素、所有權糾紛等等原因，逐漸成為廢墟，沒有保留用於文化價值保存等等用途。

This is I-Chen and kindly please allow me to introduce you to the Su Family in the 2nd Zone (2甲) of Zuoying Old City. Fortunately, this Old House has been one of the somehow properly and proportionally conserved and is one of the 20-30 existing old houses nowadays. On the other hand, it is unfortunate that roughly 80% or more out of the original 150-200 units have been torn down to rebuild in modern use or just let them turn into ruins as the time went by for whatever reason, economic concern or disputes in ownership and…etc., rather than the culture and value preservation purpose.

我先跟大家介紹一下蘇家的背景。這座古厝建於1926年日據時期，是一座五開間的大宅。這座宅第建有左右護龍，可供家族成員和/或年輕一輩居住。有別於普通的小房子，這座五開間的大宅展現這個家族的富貴顯赫的社會地位。

Let me give you some background overview about the Su family. This old house was built in 1926 during the Japanese occupation period. It was a 5-open-section big house when built up. It goes with the so-called right and left arm of building for the family members and/or the younger generations to live in. Rather than an ordinary small house, that 5-open-section big house shows its wealth, prosperity and high social status.

蘇家之所以在二甲當地深具影響力，在於這個家族的世代傳承的價值和精神。過去蘇家祖先以醫者的身分，為當地居民提供醫療服務。不過他們都是沒有執照、未經正式訓練的醫者，也就是所謂的「赤腳仙仔」。這個稱呼的意思是，在那個大部分的人都不識字、看不懂書的年代，他們透過大量閱讀和研究自學成醫。中國古代有個觀念叫做「萬般皆下品、唯有讀書高」，蘇家代代相傳這種哲理。

What makes the Su Family influential enough in local 2甲 falls on its family inherited value and spirit. Their ancestors played a role of providing medical care for local residents as a doctor. However these were uncertified, informally trained physicians called “barefoot healers” ‘赤腳仙仔’. The name means a learn-by-nature doctor illustrated by extensive reading and studying at a time when a significant part of local people were illiterate (not acquainted with words and not being able to read). An old Chinese philosophical thought says clear the value of ‘Nothing is more important than learning (Studying) '萬般皆下品、唯有讀書高’. Such philosophy is passed down from generation to generation.

我們來看一下這棟建築，找找蘇家古厝世傳價值的證據，如何？找到的人請舉手跟我們分享。對，那麼這支毛筆代表什麼意思？

Why not take a glance at the building and you’ll be able to find out possible evidence to tell the inherited value of Su Family Old House now? Raise your hand and speak up to show us if you get it please. Yes, the Chinese brush pen indicates…what?

這支用於書寫文字的毛筆寓意獲取知識，以及內心平靜和一致的內在精神。那這面細石牆面和裁切成六角形的石灰岩呢？有別於一般民房使用刺竹、土磚、土籬或土牆建造而成，蘇家古厝所使用的優質石灰岩建材足以顯示這個家族的財力。還有其他證明蘇家哲理的證據嗎？沒錯，就是這些引人注目的花磚。傳統上花磚是以手工製作，經過攝氏1,000到1,200度高溫釉燒而成。花磚在當時是很昂貴的舶來品，現在已經沒有人在製造了。花磚不只是無價的寶物，也是文化遺產。凸面花磚工藝品源於英國和法國等歐洲國家。但自1900起，凸面花磚主要是從日本淡路島出口到臺灣作建築用途（圖5）。本土化的花磚圖案一般都是石榴、蘋果、牡丹、桃子等象徵符號，寓意子孫昌茂、平安、富貴、長壽等等傳統意義。左營舊城老厝的花磚算得上是相當華麗的。

It tells the writing, words and implies knowledge acquisition as well as the intrinsic spirit of inner hearted tranquility and consistency. What about the fine stone wall and the shaved hexagonal limestones? Rather than thorny bamboo or mudbrick- or clod fence or wall of other resident houses, the fine limestone material used for the building you see shows the Su Family’ economic wealth at the time. Any other findings can prove the Su Family’s prosperity, anyone? Sure, the colored tiles named ‘Flower Tile’ do catch our eyes. The conventional hand-made and glaze firing through the process of heating temperature of 1000-1200 degree Celsius. The flower tiles at that time were extremely expensive imported goods and are no longer produced today. They are priceless treasures as well as cultural heritage. The flower tile craftworks with convex surfaces were originally from European countries such as Great Britain and France. However, they were mainly imported to Taiwan for building construction since 1900 from Awaji Island (淡路島), Japan (pic. 5). The localized tile design with symbolic sign like pomegranate (石榴), apple, peony(牡丹花), peach, representing conventional and everlasting meaning of more children offspring, peace, fortune and longevity. The flower tiles are thought to be gorgeous enough among the old houses in Zuoying Old City.

攝於蘇家古厝。注意這些來自日本淡路島的彩磚

At the Su family’s old house. Notice the color tiles from Awaji, Japan.

第三站：柯家古厝

Third Stop: The Ko Family’s Old House

文／夏天

柯家早期來自中國福建省同安縣。祖先遷臺之後原本住臺南六甲，後來移居左營謀生。

Ko family came from Tung-An (同安縣) in Fujian province of China in early time. Their ancestors originally lived in Liu Chia (六甲), Tainan, when they came to Taiwan, and then moved to Zuoying to make a living.

如今，左營柯氏成員分成四房。大房和二房兩家住在二甲，餘者住在左營三甲。

Nowadays, their members in Zuoying are divided into 4 families. The oldest and second families live in the 2nd district(二甲), the rest live in the 3rd district(三甲) in Zuoying.

這座古厝位於左營舊聚落三甲，建於日據時期。大廳門上掛著一塊門額，這是名門望族是常見的作法。上面寫著梅魁，代表這個家族的宗族名稱。春天是一年的初始，而梅花又是百花之后。梅魁代表這個家庭人口興旺，但只有女兒而沒有兒子。在中國的傳統裡，如果族中沒有兒子可以延續後代，就如寒冬一般。

This particular old house is located in the 3rd district(三甲) area in Zuoying old settlement, and was built during the Japanese occupation period. There’s a plaque on the top of the door in the hall, this is common practice for famous and rich families. And it states the clan name of the family, Mei Kuei梅魁. Spring is the beginning of the year, and plum blossoms are the queen of all the flowers . Mei Kuei梅魁 means a family with many children, only girls but no boys. In the Chinese tradition, if there is no one who can continue the future generations, it’s just like a cold winter.

人們期盼春天快點到來，因為這是百花盛開的季節。他們期望男丁能像百花綻放一樣越來越多。

People hope spring comes soon, because it is the season when flowers bloom. They expected flowers to bloom like more and more sons.

也許他們對男性子嗣的看法會隨時間改變，不過這個旺族永遠期盼後代子孫代代都能成功壯大。

Maybe time will change their views on men, but these prestigious big families will always hope that their descendants are great and successful in every generation.

與夏天攝於柯家古厝

at the Ko family’s with Summer

右邊護龍似乎年久失修

the “right arm” seems to be in shambles

第四站：大廟黃家古厝（一）

Fourth Stop: The Huang Family’s Old House（part I）

文／巴比

大家進入這座古厝前已經看到側門了，門上寫著「五福臨門」幾個字，代表各種福氣皆來的意思，足見這是一個富貴人家（圖8）。另外，從入口門額上的文字，可以看出這家的主人可能是個養子。黃家祖先叫做黃仕，是清朝時期鎮守左營的官員。在日本殖民時期，黃家後代黃鳥秋有三個兒子，分別為黃土、黃仕和黃鴻。黃家經營一家碾米廠、數家雜貨鋪，以及牛車運輸的生意，因此在地方上的影響力逐漸壯大。此外，族中有人擔任當地保正，因此地位崇高。

You had seen the side door before you entered the old house. And its name reads “五福臨門” , which means “herald of all fortunes,” the family was obviously a wealthy one (Pic. 8). In addition, the name of the lintel plaque at the entrance indicates its owner might have been an adopted son.
The ancestor, named Huang Sih (黃仕), served as an official in charge of guarding 左營 Zuoying town in Chin dynasty. And then his later generation in Japanese-colonial period, Huang Wu Chiu (黃鳥秋) had three sons, Huang Tu (黃土), Huang Sih(黃仕) and Huang Hong (黃鴻). The Huangs were getting more and more influential because they ran a rice mill, grocery stores and transportation business of ox carts. Furthermore, they also played an important role in the area because of their position of borough leader.

我們很榮幸能見到這個家族的現任女主人，她也是出現在這裡的家族後代之一！

We're so honored to see the current female owner, who is also one of the descendants of the family showing up here！

第四站：大廟黃家古厝（二）

Fourth Stop: The Huang Family’s Old House（part II）

文／龔書永

根據古厝主人的說法，黃家祖先是在清朝年間來到左營舊城，是駐紮在南門的戍守人員。日本殖民時期，黃家財產被政府徵用，作為軍事用途，因此被迫遷往現址。從古厝的規模和富麗堂皇的程度來看，足見他們當時顯赫的社會地位。多年以來，黃家在當地從事各種商業活動，包括經營輾米廠、食品雜貨、牛車運輸（也就是現代所說的「物流」）、當地治安官或保正、信用組合理事、水利組合評議員等等。以那個年代的角度來看，上述種種足以讓我們了解他們在地方上的影響力。

According to the accounts given by the owner, their early ancestor arrived in the Old Town in the Qing dynasty as a member of the garrison stationed at the south gate of the city. During the Japanese colonial period, they were forced to relocate to the present location as a result of their property being commandeered by the government for military application. The scale and opulence of the old house reveals the prestige and social status that they enjoyed at that time. Throughout the years, the family was involved in many different local business activities such as rice dehusking mill, food grocery, ox cart transportation (namely “logistics” in modern terms), local sheriff or leader of the borough (保證), banking cooperative trustee, director of the water resource bureau, and more. And again, from the perspective of the era, all the above gives us an idea on how influential they were in the nearby area.

一路下來，我們著實大飽眼福，現在終於來到四甲，看到更壯觀不朽的建築。在我們今天參觀的所有古厝中，這座是最大的。房子的主要部分蓋成兩進，中間有一座天井。這次我們只能看到第一進的房子；儘管如此，每個角落的裝飾卻讓我們印象深刻。房子正面下半部的建造工法叫做洗石子工法，是在當時很普遍的作法。這種方法是在牆面批上碎石和水泥的混合物，趁著混合物還沒乾，用濕布擦掉一層薄薄的水泥，露出隨意排列的小石子，展現錯綜複雜之美。窗戶上方的捲軸和繪畫傳達出對後代子孫的美好祝福，希望他們在書法和藝術上皆有造詣。書寫能力和良好的藝術品味在現在看來可能是稀鬆平常的事，但在當時卻是非常了不起的大事。門柱和門額則大量使用了花崗岩，展現了極至的奢華，因為這種建材只能從中國採購，更不用說這些磚砌的牆面了，因為這種建材也是從對岸進口的。由此可見這個家族並不在乎建造花費，重要的是透過奢華的建築來彰顯他們的富貴。

After walking around enjoying a feast for my eyes, we finally arrived in the 4th district to see one more spectacular timeless piece of art. Of all the houses we’ve visited today, this one is by far the largest. The main section of the house is built into two tiers with yet another patio in between. This time we only got to see the first tier; and even so, we were more than impressed by the decorations in every part of the house. The lower part of the facade displays a building technique called stuco-washing, a common practice of the time. A mixture of fine gravel and cement was applied to the surface of the wall, and before it was dry, a thin layer of cement was wiped off with a damp cloth to reveal the intricate beauty of the little pebbles arranged in random order. Above the windows were scrolls and paintings that conveyed the best wishes for the forthcoming generations: skill in calligraphy and art. This may not sound extraordinary in modern terms, but in those days, being able to write and possessing a good taste in art was a matter of utmost importance and priority. As for the doorposts and the lintel, granite was used in generous amounts. This displays superb luxury since such material could only be procured from China. And let alone the bricks that covered the walls, which are also imported from the other side of the strait. It seems that they couldn’t care less for the building budget, the message delivered through the extravagance was the only thing that really mattered.

歡迎來到黃家古厝

Welcome to the Huang family’s old house

巴比擔任黃家古厝解說員。門額上寫著梅魁二字

at the Huang’s with Bobby as the speaker. The lintel plaque indicates Mei Kuei梅魁

天井裡的傳統地磚

traditional floor tiles in the patio

大家繞一小段路去看瓦礫，找到建材和建築技術的細節

a small detour to check out the rubbles and find details about building materials and techniques

結語

Epilogue

了解這些古厝的歷史，是認識左營舊聚落的歷史的另一種方法。在現在這個時代，教育方法相當多元，有些還是相當傳統，有些則很前衛。沒有什麼比親身體驗更棒的了，再說，讀書萬卷不如行路萬里。這趟導覽帶給每一個人滿滿的收獲和第一手的體驗。參與導覽的有大人和小孩（圖12），有聽眾也有解說志工。這是賓主盡歡最棒的例子。感謝每位解說員在解說過程中所投注的熱忱和努力，這天現場每個人都成為了那段令人懷舊又靜謐的過往的大使。希望下次聽眾裡會有更多人接下解說的棒子，也能帶領自己的小型導覽。畢竟，這也是外語導覽組的宗旨：將自己對歷史的熱忱和外語能力做結合。如果你對我們所做的事也感興趣，請加入這個不斷增長的旅程。請上ourtown.tw與我們聯絡，改變你的人生。

Learning the history of these old houses was another way of learning the history of the Zuoying old settlement. In this day and age, education is full of alternatives, while some of them are still very old school, others are pretty cutting edge. Nothing compares to the experience lived in first person; furthermore, “walking into the book” is way better than just opening it. The tour provided everyone with an abundant harvest and first hand experience. Among the attendees were children and adults (pic. 12), audience and volunteer speakers as well. It was the best showcase in which the guests enjoyed just as much as the hosts. Thanks to the passion and effort that the speakers put into their stories, everyone present that day in some ways became the ambassadors of the nostalgic and silent past. Let’s hope next time more members from the audience would take over and lead a mini tour of their own. After all, this is exactly what the foreign language tour group was meant for, to combine your passion in history with the ability to speak another language. If you’re interested in what we do, please join us in this journey to keep ever growing. Contact us at ourtown.tw and make a change in your life.

大人小孩一起同樂！

Happy times for adults and children alike!

大家努力完成工作單

finishing their worksheet

我知道啦！

Eureka!

左營蓮池潭

DC — Tue, 30 May 2023 10:03:08 +0000

文、攝影／龔書永

許多遊客到了左營，都很好奇這個地區究竟有多少座寺廟。有些人可能會想：「這裡還有其他宗教嗎？」事實上，左營舊城的寺廟密度居全台之冠。但就宗教來說，這些寺廟並非全都屬於同一個宗教，而是包含四大宗教：道教、佛教、儒教和民間信仰。許多當地人會到不同的寺廟參拜並尋求精神上的寧靜。一方面是因為大多數的人認為反正這些寺廟都是宣揚信仰虔誠的地方；另一方面則單純是因為許多信徒也不明白其中的差異。早年中國移民遷到台灣定居時，就一直採行宗教包容的作法。久而久之，各種宗教相互交織融合，變得難以分辨。這也慢慢偏離中國祖先流傳下來的原有宗教習俗，原因之一可能是台灣地處偏遠，資源匱乏。當時建築材料稀缺，不易取得。在大多數的情況下，屋瓦、磚塊和砂漿都必須從台灣海峽的另一端取得。一直到了日據時期（1895 年）才有用於燒製建築材料的窯爐。這也是為什麼不只在左營舊城，全台各地都能看到不同類型的寺廟的原因。我想多樣性確實能為生活增添色彩。

Upon arriving, many visitors wonder how many temples there are in this small town. While others might be thinking, “are there other religions?” In fact, “The old town” has the highest temple density in Taiwan. However, religion-wise, not all temples are the same. The four predominant types are Taoism, Buddhism, Confucianism, and Folk beliefs. Many locals visit different temples for prayers and spiritual serenity. On one hand, because most regard them all as institutions promoting pious doctrines; on the other, simply because many believers are not that aware of their differences either. Religious tolerance has been practiced since the era of early Chinese settlements in Taiwan. In time, all religions ended up intertwined, and hard to make out. This was something that went slowly digressing from the original religious practices taught by their ancestors back in China, and one of the reasons could be lack of resources in the frontiers. Back then, building materials were scarce and hard to get. In most cases, roof tiles, bricks, and mortar would have to be outsourced from the other side of the Taiwan strait. Kilns to fire building materials arrived much later after the Japanese occupation period (1895). This accounts for the so many different types of temples seen not just here in “the Old Town”, but also in the rest of Taiwan as well. I think it’s safe to say that variety does indeed spice up the beauty of life.

慈濟宮：道教神醫Tzu Chi Palace 【pronounce as cíjìgōng】

你是否曾經想過，如果你生病了，附近卻沒有醫生或醫院，那該怎麼辦？以前的人遇到這種狀況大多只能聽天由命，面對命運。話雖如此，古代中國人自有辦法處理。據說心地善良的保生大帝會保護虔誠的信徒，而且他的醫術高超，無人能及。相傳他能治百病，經過他的治療，就連過世的人都會起死回生，可以說是東方的耶穌基督。

Have you ever imagined what it is like to be sick without doctors or hospitals nearby? Many people in the past could only leave everything to chances and face their own destiny. Nonetheless, the ancient Chinese have their own ways to deal with this. Pao-sheng Emperor is said to be the merciful protector of faithful believers. And when it comes to medical skills, he has yet to meet any match. According to legend, no illness is uncurable, even the dead come back to life after his treatment. I think it’s fair to say that he is the eastern counterpart of Jesus Christ.

保生大帝原名吳夲，生於距今大約一千年前的宋朝。他從小就天資聰明，學習任何東西都很拿手。相傳在他17歲時，神明顯靈，賜予他祛病驅魔的法力。由於他生性寬厚且深具憐憫之心，人們一直將他視為天上眾神的化身。

Originally named Wu-tao, Pao-sheng Emperor was born in the Sung dynasty, which is roughly a millennium ago. As a child, he was smart and adept showing capability in different subjects of learning. The story goes, at the age of 17, after a divine apparition, he was granted the magical power of treating illnesses as well as exorcism. And since he was always generous in addition to compassionate, people have always seen him as the avatar of the deities from heaven.

臥虎藏龍 Crouching tiger and hidden dragon…

某天他上山採草藥時，遇到一隻氣喘噓噓、快要死掉的老虎。對動物也心善仁慈的他走向這頭野獸，想要幫助牠。他仔細一看，發現牠的喉嚨有東西，於是伸手進去，從喉嚨深處取出一根髮簪。差點噎死的老虎從痛苦中解脫後，坦承自己剛在山下吃掉一名女子。這位大夫要這頭野獸保證不再吃人，並與這頭駭人但英勇的野獸病患結交成為朋友。

One day walking down the mountain trails to gather herbal medicine, he met up with a panting and almost dead tiger. Being merciful even towards animals, he approached the beast offering his help. After an examination, he found the problem in its throat and reached out with his arm to remove a hair pin from very deep inside. At once, the tiger was relieved from the agony of being chocked to death, and confessed that he had just devoured a lady on her way downhills. The doctor made the beast promise not to ever do that again and befriended this fearful but gallant patient from the wild.

這位神醫不只在人間聲名遠播，就連神龍也跑來請他醫治。話說這條龍得了風寒，眼睛也嚴重感染，於是喬裝成凡人去看診。這位厲害的大夫一下子就識破牠的偽裝，並無私地為牠醫治。他為龍滴了一些眼藥，龍很快就恢復健康的視力。為了表達感謝，神龍跟老虎一樣就留在保生大帝身邊，幫助他鏟奸除惡，消滅陰間惡鬼。這是他從上天獲得法力的真實證明，他用法力讓凡人免於病痛之苦和邪靈危害。

The fame and reputation of this miraculous physician did not stop among human beings. Even the mystical dragon could not resist the idea of booking an appointment. Coming down with flu and serious eye infection, the dragon resorted to seeing him after showing up as an ordinary mortal in disguise. In almost no time, this magnificent doctor blew its cover while offering his altruistic medical treatment. And very quickly, some eye drops helped the dragon regain its once heathy eyesight. As a gesture of gratitude, both the tiger and the dragon have remained at the disposal of Pao-sheng Emperor, eliminating not only wrongdoers but also sinister beings from the underworld. This is a genuine proof of the divine power that he once received from heaven to keep all mortals from the pain of health issues as well as the intimidation of evil spirits.

保生大帝醫術和知識無人能及，也難怪大家都來拜他。這座寺廟與眾不同的一個特點，就是它會為前來祈求健康的人提供藥籤。信徒在燒香、祭拜、擲筊後，就會拿到類似靈籤，是尺寸稍微小一點的藥籤。不同的是，上面的內容不是在解命，而是指示信徒應該去抓哪種中藥。這個概念類似預約看診，然後再拿處方去中藥店配藥。幾百年來，現代醫學和健保出現之前，這一直是當時社會民眾的普遍作法。

Since his skills and knowledge in medicine was unsurpassed, it’s not hard to imagine why people come to worship him. One thing that sets this temple apart from all others is the Chinese medicine prescription granted to those who pray for health. After incense burning, prayer, and moon blocks casting, the believer gets a divine consultation by drawing sticks similar to a fortune stick oracle, but a little smaller in size. Only that in this case, instead of an explanation of their luck, they receive an instruction of what kinds of Chinese medicine to take. This sounds like a medical appointment, after which the prescription may be taken to a Chinese medicine store to have it filled. For centuries, this practice became a social norm until the advent of modern medicine and health care.

在距今大約五百年前的明朝，保生大帝被當時的皇帝封為「恩主昊天金關御史慈濟馨鑒妙道真君萬賽無極保生大帝」。這個稱號又長又複雜，非常難記，許多信徒連唸都唸不完整。為了化繁為簡，一直以來人們都用這個稱號的最後四個字「保生大帝」來尊稱他。

In Ming dynasty, or roughly 500 years ago, the emperor granted him a title of honor, "Imperial Inspector at Heavenly Gate, Miracle Doctor of Compassion Relief, Great Taoist Immortal, and the Long-lived Unbounded, Life-guarding Emperor” (恩主昊天金關御史慈濟馨鑒妙道真君萬賽無極保生大帝). This being complicated and too long to remember, many followers have a hard time even pronouncing his entire name. For the sake of simplicity, people throughout history call him by the name of the last four Chinese characters from the title, Pao-sheng Emperor.

慈濟宮

Taoist Master of Medicine

他仔細一看，發現牠的喉嚨有東西，於是伸手進去，從喉嚨深處取出一根髮簪。

After checking, he found the problem in its throat and reached out with his arm to remove a hair pin from very deep inside.

這座寺廟與眾不同的一個特點，就是它會為前來祈求健康的人提供藥籤。

One thing that sets this temple apart from all others is the Chinese medicine prescription granted to those who pray for health.

龍虎塔Majesty and Gallantry【pronounce as lóng hǔtǎ】

如果你去高雄旅遊，就絕對不能錯過這個地方。這裡是台灣十大必去景點之一。座落於蓮池潭南端的是雄偉的龍虎塔。這兩座高聳的中式傳統建築獨一無二，工藝無與倫比，許多人甚至認為這是巨大化的裝置藝術作品。對遊客來說很棒的是，從台鐵左營站步行到這裡只要 10 分鐘，你也可以租借Youbike腳踏車，從最近的高雄巨蛋捷運站悠閒地騎過來。

If you ever travel to Kaohsiung, this is a spot you definitely can’t miss. It is among the top ten must-go places in Taiwan. Located at the southern end of the Lotus Pond are the magnificent Dragon and Tiger pagodas. Nothing compares to the uniqueness and craftmanship of this monumental Chinese traditional architecture, which in the eyes of many can be even seen as an installation art on steroids.

To the delight of visitors, this place is just 10 minute-walk from Zuoying train station (TRA), or you can rent a Youbike and leisurely pedal your way from the nearest MRT station, the Kaohsiung Arena.

自有歷史記載以來，我們眼前的龜山就一直被奉為村子的守護神。遠遠望去，這座山看起來就像在潭邊飲水的烏龜，所以才會取名為龜山。早年這裡年年昌榮繁盛，後來卻發生災難，一連出現許多異象，使得人心惶惶，像是潭水變紅，魚群大量死亡，天氣詭譎多變等等。有說法指出這個地區之所以失去原有的完美狀態，是因為歷史上這裡的自然和諧被破壞多達三次。所謂的自然和諧指的就是風水，也就是英文裡的geomancy。民間流傳著不同版本的說法，但最普遍的是以下這個版本。第一次風水破壞發生在19世紀，當時有些名門望族將已故親人葬在龜山。據傳墓碑堵住這隻烏龜的鼻腔，害牠無法呼吸新鮮空氣。第二次發生在 1940年代，當時日本政府決定開通一條路，也就是現在舊城牆旁的這條路。這次情況更慘，這隻奄奄一息的烏龜差點快被勒死。第三次—也是最後一記重擊—發生在1949年台灣光復後，當時國民政府決定在山頂建造一座塔來紀念海軍將領桂永清。這座紀念塔就像棺材上的一根釘子。這隻命運多舛的神龜嚥下最後一口氣，再也無法善盡職責，保護當地居民。

Since early recorded history, the Turtle Mountain in front of us had always been seen as the patron protector of the village. In the distance, the mountain resembles a turtle drinking water from the pond, and hence the name. Early residents enjoyed year after year of prosperity and growth. Until disaster struck, a series of unexplainable and apprehensive incidents took place in the area. The pond water turned red, fish died in big numbers, the weather became unpredictable, and what not. According to some accounts, the reason why this area lost its once perfect condition was simply because the natural harmony of the place had been upset up to three times throughout history. That harmony is called feng-shui (風水) in Chinese, and geomancy in English. Different versions circulated in the public lore; but the following is the most prevalent. The first incident occurred in the 19th century, when prestigious people chose the Turtle Mountain as the burial place for their loved ones. It is said that the tomb stones simply obstructed the nose cavity of the animal, depriving it of fresh air. The second took place in the 1940s, when the Japanese government decided to open the street that currently runs adjacent to the ancient city wall. This time, the situation got even worse as the already weak animal was being strangled almost to death. The third and final blow occurred after the restoration in 1949, when the national government decided to build a tower at the peak of the hill in memory of a Navy general (桂永清). And this was the final nail on the coffin. The ill-fated mythological animal breathed its last, never to fulfill again its faithful duty of safeguarding locals.

1969年，主祀寺廟位在龜山下的保生大帝顯靈了。祂指出一場浩劫即將來臨，要大家務必不計一切準備面對將到來的磨難。祂指示人們建造龍虎塔，並規定塔的高度要高於現有的紀念塔才能鎮煞。建好之後不久，計畫果真奏效。 1977年，一場強颱橫掃台灣並重創南部地區，幸運的是，雖然風勢強勁，但財物損失和人員傷亡都被控制在最低限度之內。許多人認為這是神明保佑的原故，否則後果不堪想像。從此，矗立在蓮池潭邊的龍虎塔，也深植在心懷感恩的當地人心裡和記憶中。

In 1969, a divine revelation came from Pao-sheng emperor, whose dedicated temple is located at the foot of the turtle mountain. He indicated that a big disaster was imminent and people must brace up for this forthcoming ordeal by any means. Therefore he commissioned the building of the Dragon and Tiger towers, stipulating that the height should be even taller than the existing memorial Tower in order to suppress the energy, or simply chi in Chinese. Shortly after the completion, the plan paid off. In 1977, a big typhoon swept across Taiwan hitting hard its southern area, but fortunately the number of losses and casualties were kept at a minimum considering the magnitude of the wind. Many people interpreted the aftermath as a sign of divine protection, which otherwise would be unthinkable. From then on, the Dragon and Tiger pagodas have stood firm and tall not only by the shore of the Lotus pond, but also in the hearts and memory of the grateful locals.

這兩座塔共有七層，塔尖還特別加長以延伸塔高。在建築風格上，黃牆、紅柱子和橙瓦讓人想起中式經典建築。據可靠消息指出，塔的頂層還藏有護身符，其法力能保護這一帶地區。在塔的底層是一對龍虎，牠們栩栩生動，雄渾有力，與塔內所描繪的主題內容相呼應。從龍口進塔，可以看到左邊的二十四孝故事和右邊的地獄血腥畫面。這些景象再再傳達一個非常清楚的訊息：對父母不孝的人會遭到可怕的報應。在虎塔走道兩側的分別是孔門七十二賢和和三十六天將。這在中國傳統哲學中是所有人應該追求的典範：既要知書達禮，也須身強體健，就像西方人所說的身心靈和諧。走出這隻令人生畏的猛獸口中可以保你平安如意，因為「出虎口」在中文裡有吉祥的寓意。

The pagodas feature seven stories in all with extended pointed roofs to ensure their height. As for the architecture style, yellow walls on the exterior, red pillars and orange roof tiles remind us of the Chinese classics. But according to reliable sources, the top floors house a talisman in each of them to protect the vicinity with their magical power. The dragon and the tiger at the foot of the pagodas display vivid and vigorous energy anticipating the content of the themes depicted on the inside. As you make your way into the mouth of the dragon, you will appreciate the twenty-four filial piety stories on the left and the hellish gory images in the purgatory on the right. The message can’t be clearer, failing to respect and obey parents will unavoidably lead to dreaded consequences. In the tiger tunnel, the seventy-two disciples of Confucius the great master and the thirty-six generals stand on each side of the passage. Perhaps in the traditional Chinese philosophy, this is the epitome of what all persons should be like: strong both in knowledge and body, reflecting something similar to the harmony that westerners call spirit, body and soul. After walking out from the mouth of this fearsome beast, you’ve accomplished an auspicious endeavor, because “exiting the mouth of the tiger” implies good luck in Chinese.

連接塔和河岸的走道叫做「九曲橋」。有趣的是，當你走在上面，會發現這個名字的數字根本對不上，因為這座橋總共只有七曲。導遊解釋中文會用「九」來比喻「多」。而事實上，「七」這個數字則取自七星寶劍的意涵。這個就留待下次再講。離開之前，別忘了摸幾下入口處神獸背上的「金元寶」喔。這隻名為「贔屭」的神獸是龍和龜的合體，而摸元寶的動作在中國文化中代表財富和好運。那我們下次見囉！

The connecting path from the shore is called “the bridge of the nine bends.” Interestingly, as you make your way in and out, such name simply doesn’t “add up”, there are only seven zigzags in total. After some explanation from tour guides, “nine” is only a metaphorical expression referring to “many” in Chinese. In reality, “seven” is a connotation coming from the sword of the seven stars. But I guess that’s good topic material for another episode in the future. And before you leave, don’t forget to touch a couple of times the “gold dumplings” on the back of the mythological animal standing at the entrance. This is a hybrid between a dragon and a turtle, and its name is Pi-xi. The Chinese regard this gesture as a sign of financial prosperity and good fortune. Until next time!

啟明堂四教合一Chi Ming Palace 【pronounce as qǐ míngtáng】

如果想要一次祭拜台灣四大宗教的眾神明，來這座寺廟參觀確實是一個不錯的選擇。不但可以省去奔波於不同寺廟參拜的不便，還可以看到平凡典型的外表背後的工程壯舉。啟明堂的意思是「神明啟示」，而這正是這座建築的真正目的。啟明堂主殿後面有一座神殿，上面一座，下面又有一座，果真是名符其實的「四教合一」。主殿供奉的是台灣四大宗教都有祭祀的關聖帝君。這位豪傑是大約1800年前的忠貞將軍，他效力於一名義軍統帥。關於他的故事都是虛實參半，雖然故事含有杜撰成分，不過信徒虔誠信奉的心卻是半點不假。由於關公勤於讀書又學識豐富，因此也被稱為文聖武帝君。參觀主殿時，可以看到關聖帝君在讀手裡的經卷，這本書就是聞名古今的《春秋》，是至聖先師孔子的眾多經典著作之一。正因如此，這座寺廟吸引不同行業的信徒，例如老師、學生、會計師、軍人、警察，甚至幫派成員，可以說是各行各業的信徒都有。

For those who want to worship the many gods of the four religion types in Taiwan, visiting this temple is indeed the way to go. It will not only save you the inconvenience of going around different temples to worship but also allow you to see the marvelous feat of engineering behind the ordinary and typical façade. Chi-Ming Temple translates into “enlightenment”, which is the true purpose of this building. There is a temple behind the main temple, another one on top, and then another one below; making it worthy of the name, “four in one”. Inside the main temple is Kuan-Kong, the saint worshipped by all four religions in Taiwan. This larger-than-life figure was a loyal general working for a warlord roughly eighteen hundred years ago. The narrative of his stories falls somewhere between reality and fiction. But despite the apocryphal nature, many followers are both devout and pious. He’s also called the saint of literature and war due to his passion and prowess in relevant subjects. As you visit the main temple, you’ll see him reading from a scroll in his hand. That book is the all-time famous “Spring and Autumn”, one of the many Chinese classics by the great master Confucius. This by all means attracted believers from all walks of life, such as teachers, students, accountants, soldiers, police officers, and even members of underground organizations of gangsters. You wouldn’t be too far off to include just as many other professions among the worshippers.

這裡供奉的神還包括孔子、釋迦牟尼佛、玉皇大帝、觀世音菩薩，以及許多佛教、道教、儒教和當地民間信仰中經常提到的神明。也許是出於熱情好客，也許是出於宗教包容，鄰近神殿的神龕內也供奉著剛才提到的其他眾多神明，再再印證四教合一特徵。這句話沒有冒犯的意思，不過對於想要圖個方便的人來說，這裡就像一個「宗教超市」，因為想拜的神這裡都有。

Other gods to worship here include Confucius, Sakyamuni buddha, Jade Emperor, Kuan-in buddha, and many deities often mentioned in Buddhism, Taoism, Confucianism, and local folk beliefs. Perhaps it was out of hospitality, or maybe due to religious tolerance, the shrines in the adjacent temples are dedicated to numerous other gods just mentioned, which confirms again its four in one feature. As a general, Taiwanese people are polytheistic because the line between local religions has always been unclear. On the other hand, worshipping more gods simply means more blessing. However, visiting many temples can be a time-consuming proposition. For those looking for an easier solution; no offense, but this is like a “religious supermarket” since there’s a god for just about everyone.

春秋閣和五里亭 The Spring and Autumn Pavilions & The Five Mile Gazebo 【pronounce as chūn qiūgé & wǔlǐtíng】

在1953年時，蓮池潭只有春秋閣這一座水上建築，還沒有我們現在看到的其他寶塔和雕像。事實上，在大多數當地人的認知中，春秋閣就是蓮池潭的代名詞。青瓦、黃牆、八角截面的塔樓都是中國古典建築風格的重要元素。

Back in 1953, the only man-made structure on the surface of the pond were the Spring and Autumn Pavilions. Other pagodas and statues we can see today were not even built yet. In fact, to many locals in their fifties and beyond, the name of these two pavilions eventually became the equivalent of the Lotus Pond. They’re so venerable that up until today, many people still use them interchangeably. Green roof tiles, yellow walls, octagonal cross-section towers are all quintessential elements of the Chinese classical style.

元帝廟北極亭Beiji Pavilion, Yuandi Temple【pronounce as yuándìmiàoběi jítíng】

左營寺廟密度居全台之冠的原因不言而喻，且處處能見源於中國的神明與神祇。其中，玄天上帝與東方信仰的關係尤為特別。西方普遍稱北斗七星為Big Dipper（英國稱之為Plough），而古時候的中國稱之為玄武，是一種駭人聽聞的危險怪獸。唐朝時期，玄武的形象更被塑造成龜蛇合體。有趣的是，根據不同人的解讀，這七顆星的涵義也有所變化。後續的故事概要便是玄天上帝憑一己之力制伏了會吃人的怪獸，解救眾生。前往蓮池潭的路上，遠遠便能看到一座高達二十四公尺的古代戰士，左手持劍，右腳踩著一支烏龜及一條蛇，是東南亞最高的水上雕像。民間流傳玄天上帝從中國北方落腳蓮池潭的千百種說法，各有其特色。我認為最令人信服的，莫過於左營的玄天上帝故事，因龜山及蛇山不僅見證了鳳山舊城的興衰，更在早期貿易時期扮演了地利的關鍵角色。玄天上帝手握的七星劍名稱其來有自。據傳，七星劍為龍虎塔對面寺廟的主神保生大帝所有。而玄天上帝向其借劍的條件，是將自己的三十六名兵將暫時交由保生大帝差遣。在借劍期間，祂們也替對方保管物品，直至鎮壓世間所有魑魅魍魎。此舉不僅展現了好鄰居的特質，更凸顯了朋友存在的意義。

For good reasons this area has the highest temple density in Taiwan. In fact, many different gods and deities from China can be found here. Among them, Xuan-Tien Emperor stands out for his connection to astrolatry. What westerners call the Big Dipper (or the Plough in the UK), the ancient Chinese call it Xuan-Wu, the name of a dreadful menacing monster. During the Tang dynasty, it was depicted as a hybrid of a turtle and a snake. It’s interesting that depending on who you ask, these seven stars of the constellation can be interpreted as different things. Long story short, Xuan-Tien Emperor saved the day for everyone by subduing the man-eating monster under his power. As you make your way to the large statue on the Lotus Pond, you’ll see a majestic 24 meter tall ancient warrior with a sword in his left hand and stepping on a turtle and a snake under his right foot. In fact, it’s the tallest statue built on the water in southeast Asia. Different narratives circulate as for how Xuan-Tien Emperor made his way from northern China to the Lotus Pond. But I personally find it obvious because the most important elements of his story can be found here. The Turtle Mountain and the Snake Mountain witnessed the rise and fall of the Feng-Shan Old Town and they also played a vital role in the selection of the location to start a trade settlement in the early times. And it’s not by coincidence that the sword has a peculiar name, the sword of the Seven Stars. According to legend, it’s a property of Pao-Sheng Emperor, the main God in the temple across the street from the Dragon and Tiger Pagodas. Xuan-Tien borrowed the sword under the condition of temporarily sending his 36 warriors at the disposal of Pao-Sheng. In the meantime, each of them will have the other’s possession until all demons and evils in the world are kept at bay. This is another example of what a good neighbor should be like; after all that’s what friends are for.

漫步在左營舊城，伴隨著引人入勝又有趣的歷史故事，著實令人著迷。聽完故事後，就連當地居民也會感到驚訝，慢慢在腦海中拼湊起一個個記憶碎片。僅憑一次造訪，很難全盤理解及感受左營豐富的歷史，建議多來幾趟舊城，才能體驗到早期居民的心境，並對左營有更深一層的認識。

The most interesting thing about walking around in old towns like this is that it’s full of breathtaking and fun stories from the ancient past. Even locals find it astonishing when many dots in their minds are slowly connected together into one solid piece. It’s fair to say that once is never enough to comprehend and enjoy the rich history behind. You need to visit the Old Town as many times to feel and even experience the mindset of those early settlers and then make sense of it all.